Beveridge Model 5 - Restore

[eurasian]

I would stick with non-polarized electrolytics for these--film caps here would be very expensive and probably not be an audible improvement.

http://www.parts-express.com//non-p...capacitors.cfm?CFID=12348184&CFTOKEN=28620629

Or here for the original mfr:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/capacitors/motor-supplies/motors/ecatalog/N-9yp

 

[Grainger49]

You could consider motor start/run caps. They are AC rated but are good, long lasting and cheap for the values. They are LARGE!

 

[335*]

I have some new binding posts on the way, but in the meantime, I wanted to start thinking about getting new caps. Here are close-ups of the other caps:
[Anyone have any recent experience finding these sizes?

I would replace them with some decent polypropylene caps, there are a number of caps to choose from. To keep the cost down you could use a bipolar cap in the low pass filter, that's the biggest cap, a polyproylene with that value would be expensive.
The speaker are defenitely worth it.

 

[Grainger49]

Are the pictured caps in the signal path or in the power supply?

 

[clydeselsor]

Great thread! I'm really glad for the happy ending. Can't wait to see the finished pics!

 

[Audio Fan]

Are the pictured caps in the signal path or in the power supply?

As I understand it, all of these are in the signal path.

I would replace them with some decent polypropylene caps, there are a number of caps to choose from. To keep the cost down you could use a bipolar cap in the low pass filter, that's the biggest cap, a polyproylene with that value would be expensive.
The speaker are defenitely worth it.

Given the quality of these speakers, I'm fine with investing in some better caps (within reason, of course), so I'm fine with looking at some more expensive ones if they both add to the sound quality and long term stability.

Great thread! I'm really glad for the happy ending. Can't wait to see the finished pics!

Thanks Clydelsor, it has been an interesting up and down experience. Will continue to document this all the way to the end. I'm also looking at how I will cover the front so I can get them into the living room (WAF and all).

 

[eurasian]

I'm also looking at how I will cover the front so I can get them into the living room (WAF and all).

Rick Beveridge told me that the speakers originally used an open cell foam material to cover the lenses--he gave me the spec, but I don't remember what it was...possibly 30-40 pores per square inch? I bet an online search will turn up something comparable.

 

[Audio Fan]

You do not mess around. These things fell into the right hands, no matter what the outcome. True audiokarma.

I meant to say thanks some time ago. At this point, it looks like things are working out, but either way, I had hoped to shed some light on what Beveridge speakers were all about and "demystify" them a bit. Hopefully you guys are having fun, albeit, vicariously.

 

[Audio Fan]

I'm also looking at how I will cover the front so I can get them into the living room (WAF and all).

Rick Beveridge told me that the speakers originally used an open cell foam material to cover the lenses--he gave me the spec, but I don't remember what it was...possibly 30-40 pores per square inch? I bet an online search will turn up something comparable.

I did not realize you still had your set. I was thinking you had sold them some time ago.

I have read about that porous material, but what I am currently thinking is to create a curved grill cover that I can insert between the aluminum rails and attach standard black grill cloth over it. At this point, I am thinking I may have to secure it to the outside of the rails with some screws to hold it in place.

The original material seems to fall apart too easily over the years and I do not want the small pieces finding their way into the stat.

 

[Audio Fan]

While I am waiting for the binding posts, I started taking a look at the other speaker, #34.

The internal binding posts are all connected, so it seems this one is the correct setup.

The crossover looks to be all the same.

For Caps, this is the first time I have seen them with a range, for example, 71 - 90 uf. Is it necessary to replace them with one that is a similar range (if possible) or can a single value, say 80 uf, be used?

 

[335*]

For Caps, this is the first time I have seen them with a range, for example, 71 - 90 uf. Is it necessary to replace them with one that is a similar range (if possible) or can a single value, say 80 uf, be used?

I guess that is another way of writing 80,5 uF +-11,8%
I think you could use a 80 uF cap but you could also measure the capacitance before buying. Check both speakers to see if they have the same value.

 

[Audio Fan]

Well, I finally had some time this evening to get #34 hooked up... it too WORKS!!!!!

Now time to start addressing some of the repairs. I had bought some replacement binding posts, but dummy me, I didn't measure the backside length it would take to get through the thick casing, so they are too short. I think I know which ones I want to go with now, so will be placing an order for them now that I have confirmed both are working.

I guess that is another way of writing 80,5 uF +-11,8%
I think you could use a 80 uF cap but you could also measure the capacitance before buying. Check both speakers to see if they have the same value.

To get an accurate measurement, I believe the capacitor has to be disconnected from the circuit, correct?

 

[eurasian]

I have been waiting for this chapter -- congrats!! Have you been able to listen to the working pair yet? I think you will be very happy with the imaging and soundstage they are able to recreate. IIRC, these don't have the 180ish degree dispersion of the originals, so they should be placed more like normal monopole speakers. How large is your listening room?

 

[Audio Fan]

I have been waiting for this chapter -- congrats!! Have you been able to listen to the working pair yet? I think you will be very happy with the imaging and soundstage they are able to recreate. IIRC, these don't have the 180ish degree dispersion of the originals, so they should be placed more like normal monopole speakers. How large is your listening room?

Many thanks!

Actually, I just confirmed #34 less than 30 min ago, so no, I've still not been able to listen to both together. And, believe it or not, it will probably be next weekend before I do since I will not receive the new binding posts until next week at this point. Since I have to lay them down, take off the bottoms, remove the woofer, etc. to get to the posts, I'm just going to wait.

The room they will be in is about 20 x 25, so I should be able to place them well enough. However, that room is still not in the final setup, we are removing the television out of the main room and it will only be our music room soon, so that will give me total flexibility, but not until the wife finds the "right" sectional or couch (so who knows when that will happen, but now that I have these, probably going to increase her budget a little, hehe).

As well, I need to work on the front grill, so will probably start working on that tomorrow.

 

[335*]

Well, I finally had some time this evening to get #34 hooked up... it too WORKS!!!!!

To get an accurate measurement, I believe the capacitor has to be disconnected from the circuit, correct?

I'm just waiting for the moment when you have replaced filtercaps and connected both speakers :yes:

yes, you have to disconnect one leg from the circuit

 

[baranyi]

Congrats! I use Bev 2SW's and they are amazing. I am sure that you will love the sonics of these speakers. Great thread! Bob

 

[Audio Fan]

I'm just waiting for the moment when you have replaced filtercaps and connected both speakers :yes:

Believe me, I too am anxious for that moment to hear them in STEREO! :thmbsp:

I rec'd the new binding posts yesterday, much, much better quality and will start installing those tonight.

As well, I have been working on a front grill. Currently learning how to curve some fiber board, a bit tricky, but I think I have it figured out.

On the caps, to ensure there are no issues, I plan to test it after each cap, but the only way to really do that, I think, is to hook it up. To do that, I have to put the crossover all the way up inside to connect the stat. Not fun in such cramped quarters and it isn't exactly light.

Congrats! I use Bev 2SW's and they are amazing. I am sure that you will love the sonics of these speakers. Great thread! Bob

Thanks Baranyi, I hope to be a listening member of the Beveridge club here soon.

 

[Audio Fan]

Over the weekend, I installed the new binding posts. These are much better quality and while I was at it, I wired them identically to each other.

FINALLY, I was able to hook them up together and here them in STEREO! Not the best listening place in my garage, BUT, the imaging is indeed incredible. It was almost a 3D effect, very surprising in a speaker of 30+ years. Again, not the best conditions as they were only about 6' apart and about 6' away, but what I did hear was impressive. My wife even noticed a significant sound stage difference from the Maggies.

I'm still working on a grill cover. I'm working with some fiber board and if I can get it to curve, it should work nicely, but getting it there has been slow going without the right tools. I would prefer some kind of thick plastic I could cut to shape, but do not know where to source something 5' long.

 

[Audio Fan]

Believe it or not, but tonight, I finally completed some grill covers for the speakers. What a real PITA trying to make something to fit a curved cylinder! After a couple of start/stops, I finally found something that would curve and be strong enough for the grill cloth. With my main tool being only a Dremel, I was limited to what I could to, but managed to make something presentable. I used regular grill cloth and did not add any new holes, so this can be undone at any time.

My goal was to get them out of the garage and into the house. Before I take any next steps to do any upgrades, like cap replacement, I want to hear them for a while in their current state.

Not the best pic since it was so late. Playing around a bit with placement, so will see what has the best sound. This is also not going to be their final position in the room. I will be moving them to an adjacent, longer wall in place of the TV in the coming months and the room will only be used for music.

 

[jimfet]

Not sure about these models, but I know the other models are supposed to be on opposite walls facing each other. That's what helps with the moving sweet spot.

This was kinda explained to me in the late sevenies by Harold himself. But this model was not around when I talked to him.