Cerwin Vega D15EE crossover and eventual SQ upgrade

[Billy Oxygen]

One last modification to note. I ended up adding a mills 1% 3 ohm resistor in series with the 45 ohm resistor on both crossovers. I did this to attenuate the mid/ treble circuits. So this is with the minimal presence switch on and both the mid and tweeter connected with reverse polarity. Result no change in tonal quality, increased ability to hear the low middle and low low end a little better. I found that it is easier to hear how well defined the low end is, and a fuller mid range. I am estimating that the woofer rolls off naturally at 2500 hz.

Great speakers, to my ears they are pretty well flawless in my set up.

 

[DarinS]

I'm a new D15EE owner and going through the crossovers. Is anyone still able to help?

 

[avguytx]

@DarinS What help are you looking for?

 

[DarinS]

At this point moral support would be great. I'm making a parts list to redo the crossovers. I have been looking for about any information on them. These things are a freaking unicorn.

 

[DarinS]

This is my first time doing anything like this. Just a little nervous.

 

[switzer@1966]

Some of my saved D-9 info if it helps? Have a lot of old info on Vegas if interested, nothing on your particular model, mostly the D-series

 

[DarinS]

Some of my saved D-9 info if it helps? Have a lot of old info on Vegas if interested, nothing on your particular model, mostly the D-series

I appreciate it.

 

[DarinS]

My parts are starting to trickle in!

 

[AndreOne]

Hello everyone, I own the 1991 D15EE bought in Italy. after 30 years I changed the red foam and they are as good as new. They were fine but lately I think the crossovers have started to malfunction with the total loss of the tweeters. I have 4 of C5J tweeters and they are all working,
I deduce that some capacitor or the oxidation of some component creates problems. So I decided to build new ones by recovering the inductors and the presence selectors.I read everything about this post and I wanted to kindly ask you if anyone currently owns the crossover scheme and the list of components,
Unfortunately, due to the prehistoric delivery of the original crossover with the components attached with glue, I cannot read the values of the 3 necessary capacitors. There is also that famous CULVER 1A-50 component that there is no trace online, if anyone knows how to replace it. Thank you for your attention.

 

[Billy Oxygen]

@AndreOne Have you gotten resolution? If you start a new thread I bet you will get more responses. These are definitely worth the effort to get up and running! I will have to do some looking around to see if i can help. The Culver if i remember is just a thermal switch. perhaps protecting the tweeters. Start a new thread and i will do my best to pitch in, but others can help too.

 

[AndreOne]

@Billy Oxygen I sprayed WD40 inside the presence Carling switch, and the problem was solved. However, the desire to build new ones remains because I believe that after 30 years the components something loses. But maybe given my age I've lost some frequencies too. I am considering Jantzen components, new Carling selectors and some new inductances once measured (or I will recuose the existing ones) all mounted on board and spaced from the original base. Honestly, the original crossovers are very but very poorly built for the price they cost in 1991.
I will update you on the crossover in the future as soon as it is built!
Thanks for everything friends

 

[Billy Oxygen]

@AndreOne I think you should consider ordering DeOxit to clean the WD40 out of the switch. I read somewhere that WD40 is not recommended, Deoxit is recommended for cleaning switches. Congrats on getting them up and running! There seems to be two build qualities for the crossovers.

What was the price in 1991?

 

[AndreOne]

@AndreOne I think you should consider ordering DeOxit to clean the WD40 out of the switch. I read somewhere that WD40 is not recommended, Deoxit is recommended for cleaning switches. Congrats on getting them up and running! There seems to be two build qualities for the crossovers.

What was the price in 1991?

I have been using WD40 since 1987 for both mechanical and electromechanical components and have never and I mean never had a problem! For electronic components there is also a specific version!I have tried using other products but when it comes to oxide and decades of dirt I think WD40 is the best! PS I do not sell WD40
The D15ee bought in 1991 (gift from dad) were paid 1,800,000.00 Italian liras ,corresponding absurdly to 900 euros today.
I had chosen the AT40s but they broke after only one week thanks to my DJ experiments with the equalizer hahahahaha.
To talk about the crossover,from what I found on the net ,I have not found better ones on the D15s, the components are always the same and the assembly is really crap.
They used industrial soldering to make sure the crossover wouldn't break because it is placed behind the woofer.It has lasted 30 years with rock pop jazz and disco.
I will attach a few photos and stay healthy

 

[AndreOne]