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Dual 1219 platter wobble

David Kojnik

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Any tips on fixing or aligning the platter? Platter has a slight wobble when you look down at it. No other issues noted.
Thanks
 
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Not sure what vertical runout is. If i place my finger on the side of the platter as it spins it will occasionally either leave my finger or push harder against it.
 
If the amplitude is 1-2 millimeters, then the upper bushing is most likely worn out. They are usually made of bronze. Well, a small curved casting of the disk itself is also quite possible. If the sleeve can still be replaced, then it is not realistic to align the disk. It is easier to choose another, more even.
 
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Platter may have taken a knock or the unit bump over the years. Or bearing could need work. First thing, remove the
Clip and remove the platter and lay upside down on a flat surface to see if it is true.

The main bearing is accessed via removal of two retaining screws on a bracket. Remove the bracket carefully and the bearing can be removed for cleaning and relube.

Pry up the tabs and remove pieces clean with IPA and reinstall. The upper washer can be flipped if the surface is worn. Best to replace. Lube - thick viscious oil has been reccomended. I use bar and chain.

Check again.

I dropped a platter reaching for it while sitting at my bench. Maybe 10 in -12 in off the floor and the platter was reduced to garbage.
 
I got what you mean. But in any case, if the disk is deformed, then it will not be possible to adequately align it at home. It's easier to find another from a donor. but at the beginning you need to make sure that the disc is to blame, but not the sleeve. I saw in workshops for rolling automobile disks there is a special device that measures the beat called an hour hand beat meter. Well, check the bushing for play.
 

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If you are able to determine that the platter is misshapen I have a 1219 platter I could send your way for cost of shipping. The metal rings on the matt are scratched up, but you could probably replace the matt with the one you have. DM me if you need one.
 
I'm sorry, but unfortunately I can't help you with this. I don't use that kind of equipment anymore. I changed my qualification. But nothing prevents you from contacting some kind of auto repair shop, or a metalwork workshop. They have such a device. I think it wouldn't cost much to just check a turntable disc.
 
As a bushing lubricant, try lithol, a thick, gel-like grease based on petroleum oils and lithium soap that has a high viscosity and heat resistance. Sometimes it helped me when there was a strong backlash in the turntable belt drive motor.
 
Just about every cast-zinc alloy platter from Dual has a warp. This includes even the pricey 1219 and 701.
This has nothing to do with bushings or bearings.
Thorens had same issue, but to a much lesser extent because they shelved newly-molded platters for a few weeks, to see how bad they would warp.
 
That's why I asked the topcaster how big the beating of the disk is. It is possible that he is within the normal range.
 
Thanks. Looks like i will leave it alone as it seems normal ops.
Follow up question. When hitting start the tonarm drops where it is supposed to but does not seem to move inward to start playing. Checked balance, weight setting and anti-skid. Believe all are correct. Could it be the cartridge/stylus alignment?
 
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Thanks. Looks like i will leave it alone as it seems normal ops.
Follow up question. When hitting start the tonarm drops where it is supposed to but does not seem to move inward to start playing. Checked balance, weight setting and anti-skid. Beleive all are correct. Ciuld it be the cartridge/stylus alignment?
do you mean that the tonearm pulls towards the center of the disc?
 
No, it just sits there in the start groove and will not move inward to start playing music
 
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If you can hear a pop every ~2 seconds then something is binding up the tonearm causing the stylus to pop back a groove every rotation. If that's not happening are you certain the stylus is making contact on the record? There's a black plastic knurled nut on the rear left of the tonearm assembly that adjusts the cue piston movement range. It could potentially be adjusted too high keeping the piston in too tall a position and preventing the tonearm from fully dropping onto the record.
 
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