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Electrolytic Capacitor Shoot-Out

Results

Cap Shoot-Out Final Summary:

Acceptable: Panasonic FC’s

This cap has been the standard bearer for quit some time. It is very neutral in sound and really does not do anything wrong. There are just some things that it does not do.
1. The sound field is 2D
2. The low end is rolled off in the lowest octave
3. The hi end is recessed
4. The mids and in particular vocals lack body

Who is it for: You just want to restore your Marantz to get another 20 years out of it and could care less about fancy imaging terms and vocals with body, and your speakers do not go down that far in the bass anyway. You will be very happy for a very long time with these. If this does not describe you read on.

Excellent: Nichicon KZ/FG

These caps are very neutral and very clean sounding. The frequency extremes are all there. There is just a small midrange scoop, and you may or may not be able to deal with it with the Marantz Mid control. These are like the Panasonic FC’s for someone who is looking for a little more. The vocals have nice body (can sound just a tad thin on some, but not a deal breaker.) They image well and there is sound stage width and depth. A truly lovely cap, excellent sounding. If you want the lowest risk of being unsatisfied with the caps you are installing use these. I see no possible way you would not like them. They will not do anything funny to the music and they are the least colored of the caps I tried.

Who are they for: You are restoring your Marantz and you want to do it right and you do not want any surprises with the final outcome. You have nice speakers and a decent table with cartridge, and can appreciate some subtle things in music like enjoying a nice sound stage etc.

Special Category: Elna Silmic 11:

A very special cap, it will imbue the music with that liquid smooth “tube like” sound. The soundstage width and depth are excellent; imaging is superb and rock solid. These caps just never lose control they always sound smooth and relaxed. The mids are huge sounding (in a sound space way) it makes vocals sound very seductive. You will be tapping your feet with these; they get you involved and draw you into the music. The low end moves air if your system is capable and the highs are very sweet sounding.

Who are they for: You have modern speakers that image well, and can throw out a nice soundstage. You are using high end type speaker cable and a very nice cartridge and you are looking for the lush sound of tubes out of your Marantz-these are the ticket. There are however some restrictions because they are somewhat gently colored. The upper bass and mids are a little bumped up in my opinion. If you have JBL 100’s they are also colored in this region, this may be a bit too much. As I side note I have owned the JBL 100’s and love them, this example just came to mind.

*******When I was done the Shoot-Out these were the caps that I initially put back in.

Special Category: Elna Cerafine

These are ridiculously clean and transparent sounding. They do not have the “tube sound” of the Silmics but are still smooth and sweet. They have an open window to the music from the upper mids all the way out to the high end. They do have a gentle bump in the mids that will move the vocals forward in the mix, and the high end has a gentle rise but is never shrill, just clean transparent and accurate. When I played Reference Recordings Dafos the song, “ Reunion,” there were parts that sounded so realistic I turned my head to look to each side of the room because I though this could not possibly be coming from the speakers.

Who are they for: As above you are looking for a high end type sound out of your Marantz receiver. The rest of your components are up to snuff and you can appreciate a musical revelation so to speak. You may not want to mate these to a speaker that has a hot high end, could be a little too much.

*******So these are the caps I could not get out of my head, I was willing to give up the lush sound of the Silmics for that open window that I got attached to when listening to the Cerafine’s.

Well that’s it, I did order Silmic 11’s and Cerafine’s for my phono board and will try both and report back.

I am not wanting people to go pulling caps out of their power supply board because of this thread, if you are indeed doing it and have the technical skills to do so please report back to this thread with your choice of what you used and your thoughts on the resulting sound.

Any questions just respond to the thread I was trying not to get side tracked , so did not comment much wanted to keep the thread on track.

Cheers!


Equipment Used:

B&W 685 Speakers: “The Absolute Sound Editors Choice” IMHO best speakers under a grand.

Paul Speltz Anti Cables speaker cables: ”The Absolute Sound Editors Choice” Amazing sounds like you are not using speaker cables.

Pioneer PL10 Turntable (ha ha I know) Totally reworked with sound dampening, rewired, and braced. (Sounds better then my AR)

Audio Technica 125LC: Very neutral and smooth perfect to use for this shoot-out. I had also just installed a NOS stylus.

Marantz 2220B Receiver: Totally stock with original Marantz outputs.
 
Excellent!!! Thank you, very much.
Jay

P.S. I'll be watching for the phono board results.
Best wishes.

Agree..Pat well done and also looking at your next board.

This maybe one guy's set of ears...but to go thru testing ripping out caps and testing...My kind of Guy!!!!
 
I'm in agreement with Glenn on this. Experimentation can be a lot of fun and Pat has done some interesting comparisons, but without application of the scientific method including a control group to keep things honest, it comes down to a matter of opinion.

If you want to experiment with your own gear, that's OK with me, you only have to please yourself.

Tom

Not only that, but now every time someone brings me a piece of gear to work on, I'm going to have explain all over again that caps is caps. I buy them according to lifespan, ESR and leakage specifications. Comparing the the sound of capacitors in a regulated power supply is just plain silly, IMO. In fact, I'm not really convinced that there is a measurable or audible difference in the signal path between quality electrolytics.
 
The FC's have been installed and are running now to let them break in a little before I do any serious listening.

P/S Board ready:




Uhh....forgive me for being a nitpick, but were you going to clean the crud off that board?:smoke:
 
Uhh....forgive me for being a nitpick, but were you going to clean the crud off that board?:smoke:

No problem it does look pretty bad. I brushed some ArticClean on the dried glue and when it softens gently scrapped it off with a small plastic spatula I have, board was cleaned with foam swab and isopropal. I did it before I put the final set of caps back in. (The Cerafine)
 
Uhh....forgive me for being a nitpick, but were you going to clean the crud off that board?:smoke:

im more interested to know if those components on the board there that look pretty rough are adding color to the sound..
wouldent old components like that make more of a audible difference than high end caps?

the entire time i was reading this thread.. i kept thinking about the old resistors in there.
 
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im more interested to know if those components on the board there that look pretty rough are adding color to the sound..
wouldent old components like that make more of a audible difference than high end caps?

the entire time i was reading this thread.. i kept thinking about the old resistors in there.

The picture is of the Power Supply board and it measures 35V +/_ .2V like it is supposed to and the receiver is dead quiet.

I do have a 1070 with the preboard where all the resistors are changed to metal film 1%. See pick below.

 
Ideally you should glue the caps back on that were glued on from the factory....as it might help with mircophonics.....Ideally...

I like the idea of tube dampers better. The glue is a pain if I should decide to change again.

I used a damper material on my other 2220B on the Main Filter Caps see below:

 
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Not only that, but now every time someone brings me a piece of gear to work on, I'm going to have explain all over again that caps is caps.

Seriously, what makes one piece of equipment sound 'better' than another.
Of course, the answer is...Many things.
To have better sounding equipment, we can all just go out and buy the latest and greatest audio equipment as reviewed in the top audio magazines, like The Absoulte Sound. How many of us can afford that, though?
So, as an alternative, what are we to do?
That we own Marantz at all, clearly shows that we are serious about our music, AND we want it to sound as good as possible, right?
Tell me, here and now, that if in fact Pat turns out to be right, which I believe he is, that you will not put the best sounding components in your client's equipment.
"Caps is caps". Are you sure you want to be quoted that way...by your customers???
And don't tell me you can't teach an old dog new tricks. I'm 62 myself; and I've listening to this stuff since before 1970. I'm here to tell you, I've spent a whole lot of money in the pursuit of recorded music that gave me the same feeling I get from a great LIVE performance. When is the last time you've been to a LIVE concert?
Now, tell me "caps is caps".
 
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No problem it does look pretty bad. I brushed some ArticClean on the dried glue and when it softens gently scrapped it off with a small plastic spatula I have, board was cleaned with foam swab and isopropal. I did it before I put the final set of caps back in. (The Cerafine)

FYI - I'm told that Lacquer thinner is a good way to clean old glue and crud off pc boards. Can anyone confirm?
In the past I've used Windex on the easy stuff and 91% Isopropyl on the tough stuff. Sorry to follow this tangent; but I've been wanting to ask about the Lacquer thinner for awhile.
 
Butt ! can you hear the difference, if the caps are 30 + years old the demand for current at high volumes may increase and the low end might sound a little better, but who sits around thinking about this stuff ? You may never know if the change in caps (brand etc ever made a difference over the long run.
I can see differences when putting signal gens thru a unit, but hear the difference? Some may say yes and others No... so it's up to the individual to go the route they want. Run some testes, post the curves that show the tremendous difference in caps...
Sorry peeps, had a little argument tonite with someone about this,,,
nuff said.

:lurk:
 
FYI - I'm told that Lacquer thinner is a good way to clean old glue and crud off pc boards. Can anyone confirm?
In the past I've used Windex on the easy stuff and 91% Isopropyl on the tough stuff. Sorry to follow this tangent; but I've been wanting to ask about the Lacquer thinner for awhile.
Acetone.

RE: This whole thread. Back in the beginning, years ago, I believed a lot of that BS about caps and resistors making huge differences, and spent a lot of time with any number of units experimenting. In the end, I spit out the kool-aid and found out that if a resistor needs replacing, by all means use a good one, but otherwise it's a damn waste of time and money (exception might be in high-gain stages, where replacing resistors of 100K and over may actually make a measurable difference, or older gear with lots of carbon comp jobs...or if you simply have a lot of time on your hands and are capable of desoldering lots of parts without destroying foil traces - the latter meaning that a whole lot of people should simply put the cover back on and go shopping for a CD). And as far as caps, there's a proper cap for every job (PS, signal path, bypassing, etc...) Use a good quality cap that's made for the purpose you intend and get on with your life.

Do not suppose that I am belittling anyone's efforts...experimentation is part of what it's all about. But what you find to be true, I may see as total BS, and vice-versa. That's simply how life is. The only thing I have a problem with is the supposition that some universal formula for the best sound that is applicable to all things audio has been found, which is rather silly once properly considered. If it were only that easy...
 
Acetone.

RE: This whole thread. Back in the beginning, years ago, I believed a lot of that BS about caps and resistors making huge differences, and spent a lot of time with any number of units experimenting. In the end, I spit out the kool-aid and found out that if a resistor needs replacing, by all means use a good one, but otherwise it's a damn waste of time and money (exception might be in high-gain stages, where replacing resistors of 100K and over may actually make a measurable difference, or older gear with lots of carbon comp jobs...or if you simply have a lot of time on your hands and are capable of desoldering lots of parts without destroying foil traces - the latter meaning that a whole lot of people should simply put the cover back on and go shopping for a CD). And as far as caps, there's a proper cap for every job (PS, signal path, bypassing, etc...) Use a good quality cap that's made for the purpose you intend and get on with your life.



Do not suppose that I am belittling anyone's efforts...experimentation is part of what it's all about. But what you find to be true, I may see as total BS, and vice-versa. That's simply how life is. The only thing I have a problem with is the supposition that some universal formula for the best sound that is applicable to all things audio has been found, which is rather silly once properly considered. If it were only that easy...

What do you consider a good quality cap for say Power Supply and signal path?
 
Really ? None of this matters?

I have to disagree. If you start with a low end unit, low end speakers and low end source... Recap it , reresistor it .... Hmmmmm...you might get marginal results at best and will be disappointed.

But if you have high end source and speakers that are capable of low distortion you will hear well thought out component upgrades to the preamp and amp.

For example....carbon resistor used as an I/V resistior in current source DAC will provide poor result. Replace it with a bulk foil low noise / inductance resistor a major improvement will be had.

Components have improved. I still miss some of the old school caps, transformers, wiring......switches.

However... The cost of having a 3rd party do all this to a lower end system is not worth it. That I agree with.

A 59$ cd player from wall mart is not going to be a good starting point...for a 20$ resistor ( price for one resistor and you need two ) I/V dac upgrade.

New Superior componets added to old high end systems will clearly be heard....worth it ? To me yes.... To my wife....well she is impressed with my system but not the time spent.....

And then we can discuss internal wiring upgrades, interconnects, speaker wires, fuses, ac power,.......on & on upgrades.....how about a film cap bypass to improve your speaker fuses :)

Well executed component upgrades will help mid range units. But don't waste your money if your are starting with a 59$ cd player as your source. ( sorry to those who love their cheap cd players....)

Jk

I guess I better return these caps I bought for my Emerson CD player.


http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/AU-6U0-200V-Aura-Teflon/6.0uF+200V+Aura+Teflon
 
It seems to me that it's hard to disprove subjective impressions. If someone wants to spend the time and energy to modify their own equipment to meet their specific audio tastes, that's great.

For myself I think that modifying a unit in every conceivable way to achieve yet another degree of personal improvement is not respectful to the original design. In may cases the final modified version has little resemblance to the original unit that we loved so much.
 
It seems to me that it's hard to disprove subjective impressions. If someone wants to spend the time and energy to modify their own equipment to meet their specific audio tastes, that's great.

For myself I think that modifying a unit in every conceivable way to achieve yet another degree of personal improvement is not respectful to the original design. In may cases the final modified version has little resemblance to the original unit that we loved so much.

This is a very interesting point to consider.
I still love my original Marantz 2270. Many, not all, would agree.
It is a CLASSIC, right?

So then, why did Marantz feel the need to tinker with this classic 2270.
Why not just continue to manufacture a very successful model?
Of course, part of it was MARKETING. Part of it was cost savings in the mfg process.
...But, perhaps, some Marantz engineers, in their tinkering, actually thought they found a way to make an improvement. Ya think?
Well, for those of us who buy the older stuff, like the 2270, or Model 18 or 19, for whatever reason, does it make sense to attempt to get the absolute best performance from these audio classics?

As for myself, when I restored an classic British MGA roadster I didn't install the original bias-ply 5.20 x 14 tires when the job was done. Instead I used the latest Michelin XAS Radials. (I'm talking 1973-ish.)
After all, this thing was made to drive, and drive aggressively.
It was not just made to look at.

I'm listening to my 'new' Marantz Model 19 right now; and I think I know what caps are going into my Model 19 when the restoration begins.
Thank you Pat.

It seems not all of us are as experienced with this equipment, or with this great forum. You more experienced guys have been very helpful, and tolerant with our ramblings. They come from a certain amount of enthusiasm with our 'new' stuff. Forgive us for our (My) self indulgence.
As mentioned in this thread, some of you have been down this path before.
 
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Really ? None of this matters?
That isn't what I said.
What do you consider a good quality cap for say Power Supply and signal path?
My personal choices are simply my own, and do vary depending on what I'm working on, but a general overview goes something like this: http://audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2526347&postcount=12

I do like the Elna Silmic II caps for signal path duties, and think it's the best thing to come along in years. The real problem is when you need a small radial non-polar cap for signal path duties. Neither the Panasonic SU or the Nichicon ES or UVP are ideal (and the Nichicon's are often physically oversized). But bypassing one of these bipolar caps with a small film cap (0.1µf to 0.47µf) can right a lot of wrongs, from a sonic perspective.

The selection of large power supply caps is dependent on too many factors to be able to make a general statement (physical size and availability being two big issues). The pool of available components has shrunk so much in the last 5 years that there really isn't a big number of choices. I buy parts that fit from manufacturers that have a good reputation, and hope that I'm not disappointed. So far, so good.

Much of what I pick, I pick with an eye to longevity...an 85°C cap installed next to a blazing hot series-pass transistor on a regulator board might sound good now, but in 10 years that cap may well have issues. That 105°C cap might not be the primo sounding part now, but it'll probably sound better than that 85°C cap after 10 years has gone by. These and many others are important considerations when you're doing the work professionally.

This is MY method, albeit presented here in shorthand. I don't expect anyone to consider it their own endgame...that's a journey to travel on your own.
 
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Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but it looks like the spec sheet for Silmic II shows all @ 85°C ?

The caps on the PS board seem to be good candidates for heat. Specially in a cramped 2325.

I can definitely believe heat and age to be the #1 cause for electrolytic failure/drift?

I think I too would choose a 105° over boutique.

.
 
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