JVC QL-?? owners thread
- Thread starter BillWojo
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Snuck
Active Member
Apparently they built them on very low quantities due to the build quality, and it was exported as well. So there must be a few out of Japan since the 60s. The axle unbalance have been fixed. Still going a bit too fast.
Yes, it is a very clever design and the build quality have its appeal. I'll try to listen to it soon but the tonearm sound quality is already astonishing despite it didn't work for a long time. It is sounding as good as it painful to set up. I am in love with it.
The cartridge stylus should arrive in one or two weeks but I was impressed by the sound despite the distortion. Couldn't hear more than few seconds before distortions happened but it was good start.
I have no idea yet how to fix the speed but it is really a nice one turntable, especially for 1966. The plinth is the weak side due to its lightness compare to the quality of the others parts : it was the most expensive turntable sold in Japan at this time, guess they had to cut a bit of prices somewhere.
Yes, the pl-41d definitly looks like a descendant, especially it looks a lot like the victor srp-bl 30/40 turntables released in 68. Maybe they sold the design since pl-41d is in the 70s?
Yes, it is a very clever design and the build quality have its appeal. I'll try to listen to it soon but the tonearm sound quality is already astonishing despite it didn't work for a long time. It is sounding as good as it painful to set up. I am in love with it.
The cartridge stylus should arrive in one or two weeks but I was impressed by the sound despite the distortion. Couldn't hear more than few seconds before distortions happened but it was good start.
I have no idea yet how to fix the speed but it is really a nice one turntable, especially for 1966. The plinth is the weak side due to its lightness compare to the quality of the others parts : it was the most expensive turntable sold in Japan at this time, guess they had to cut a bit of prices somewhere.
Yes, the pl-41d definitly looks like a descendant, especially it looks a lot like the victor srp-bl 30/40 turntables released in 68. Maybe they sold the design since pl-41d is in the 70s?
Snuck
Active Member
Ok so actually, it seems it's in 60hz mode. I see nothing about the motor frequency change, could it be automatical? I just rescrewed it and it went 60hz while I am pretty sure it was 50hz speed on strobo before...my head is starting to leave me. So I need a pulley and what else to change motor frequency?
totem
Addicted Member
I guess it depends on which planet your on.
Snuck
Active Member
Thanks. I was asking this because some Micro Seiki of the eras had this frequency switch.
Some digging upon the TT-61 to 101 series shows that there were custom made plates with huge steel armboard making the plinth weighting alone 18.5kg while not looking that big yet.
Those plinths are apparently extremly rare but shows that at the high end, there was some custom shops working on Technics, Victor, Micro Seiki and such. A prolific world we will never get to see.
Some digging upon the TT-61 to 101 series shows that there were custom made plates with huge steel armboard making the plinth weighting alone 18.5kg while not looking that big yet.
Those plinths are apparently extremly rare but shows that at the high end, there was some custom shops working on Technics, Victor, Micro Seiki and such. A prolific world we will never get to see.
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fish mojo
Active Member
Hey all. My QL-55F plays and sounds beautiful. However, the automatic start, que does not function. Once you have the album in place, press the “Start/Stop” button and it should start turning the platter, lift the tone arm, move to the play position, then lower the tone arm and start playing.My player when you push the “ready” button to wake machine up. Pressing the Start/Stop button should begin the fully automatic function. However, it only lifts the tone arm and nothing else happens. From there, I need to run the manual function by pressing the “TT-start/stop” (platter is now turning), arm operation arrow left (arm moves motorized to position to where I release at the start of the album), then momentary push the “up/down” and the tone arm gently drops into position and the beautiful music begins.
The automatic end functions perfectly at the end of the album lifting the arm, returning and resting the arm, and stopping the platter. Also while in operation, any time I push the stop/start button it lifts the arm and returns it to the rest and stops the platter.
So, everything works per design, except for the fully automatic play function. I’ve reviewed the manual and not seeing anything I’m missing. Is this repairable to a technician or just live with as a semi- automatic player.
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Love this thread.
Thank you all!
I just joined the Victor family today! TWICE!!! LOL
I snagged a QL-Y3F and a QL-Y7 through buyee this morning. Both looked great, no corrosion, and were listed as fully functional.
The Y7 had 56 bidders and ended an hour after the Y3F with zero bidders. I didnt want to miss out on the Y3F if the Y7 exceeded my budget or disappeared.
The disappearing act I experienced first hand earlier this week while bidding on a YP-D10. The seller pulled it 2 days early presumably due to the low price.
One of the Victors will likely be test run and sold, unless I can convince the CFO to keep them both
Thank you all!
I just joined the Victor family today! TWICE!!! LOL
I snagged a QL-Y3F and a QL-Y7 through buyee this morning. Both looked great, no corrosion, and were listed as fully functional.
The Y7 had 56 bidders and ended an hour after the Y3F with zero bidders. I didnt want to miss out on the Y3F if the Y7 exceeded my budget or disappeared.
The disappearing act I experienced first hand earlier this week while bidding on a YP-D10. The seller pulled it 2 days early presumably due to the low price.
One of the Victors will likely be test run and sold, unless I can convince the CFO to keep them both
desertrat748
Super Member
I don’t have your model but mine had some issues with auto stop. Adjusting it accordingly to the manual (download online) fixed the problem. Maybe see if they have a troubleshooting section.
Snuck
Active Member
Download the manual or bring it to a very skilled repairer, it does needs attention before it goes worst.
The main function still works but it definitely can lead to others issues later. If you see the repairer isn't very passionated about the turntable you bring or doesn't really know the brand for its high ends, walk away.
Congrats for the new tt! They're both quite different per design so maybe you'll end up keeping both! They do a lot of pull up currently as it is January and life in Japan have its costs increasing. Check them on arrival but they are normally good to go.
The main function still works but it definitely can lead to others issues later. If you see the repairer isn't very passionated about the turntable you bring or doesn't really know the brand for its high ends, walk away.
Congrats for the new tt! They're both quite different per design so maybe you'll end up keeping both! They do a lot of pull up currently as it is January and life in Japan have its costs increasing. Check them on arrival but they are normally good to go.
fish mojo
Active Member
Yes, I think I’ll take it in to Audio Specialties in Portland. Time for the big G to go in for a cleaning and calibration as well.
desertrat748
Super Member
Okay, I reread your post and applied some of that reading comprehension to it. I was thinking that it might be some sort of adjustment as I had in my JVC QL A7 with automatic stop but now I realize that it is not the stop but the start process failing.
I have had this exact same problem with two of my JVC LF-41 tables. Same exact issue.
I finally figured out what was going on with it. I’m not sure if it’s the same setup for you or the same switch failing but they are all JVC machines so maybe. Mine were built around 1982. Yours?
There’s a switch that activates the automatic process once you depress the start button. My arm would lift but nothing happened afterwards. The switch has contacts that will corrode somewhat and fail to connect the circuit to start the process of turning the table on and everything else that follows.
If yours is like mine, you will have to open up your table and find the switch. You can bypass it (I did that with mine) and then everything will work but the power is going to be on until you unplug it. I posted up this fix somewhere on here so you might want to do a search on it.
I have found replacement switches online that will work but I have not purchased them yet. I might just try and refurbish the old switch by cleaning the contacts. I’m happy to just use a power strip to turn on my table or a switched outlet off a receiver or amp.
How are you with opening up your table?
Edit: The switch was located near the center of my plinth where a gear could activate the switch and start the process. I had to remove the counter weight and I think maybe the tailpiece off the tonearm to get the table open. You might want to look up how to do yours. Maybe search for replacement of start switch for JVC automatic tables. Or you could try mentioning it to your repair shop that you think it might be a possibility for your issue. It could be totally different with yours however as they are different models.
Good luck with yours and let us know if you fix it!
DR
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fish mojo
Active Member
I’m not that comfortable opening it up. I’ll take it to my local vintage repair shop. We have a good one in Portland. You just need to be patient while he gets around to it. Thanks.
Snuck
Active Member
That's a nice write up on the problem, you have a very thorough way of describing and solving the issue.
They are all JVC but depending on generations, they use sometimes a different design as JVC kept doing researches. This explain the quantities of different service manuals with differents IC, sometimes with the same motor.
No shame if you prefer to wait and be sure. You can maybe however open it up and do picture so our DesertRat could tell you more about what's going on. If it can be an easy fix and save you some bucks on the final bill...
They are all JVC but depending on generations, they use sometimes a different design as JVC kept doing researches. This explain the quantities of different service manuals with differents IC, sometimes with the same motor.
No shame if you prefer to wait and be sure. You can maybe however open it up and do picture so our DesertRat could tell you more about what's going on. If it can be an easy fix and save you some bucks on the final bill...
QL-Y5F resurrection:
Just in case anyone else runs into a similar scenario...
I pulled my dad's QL-Y5F from a cabinet where it hadn't seen the light of day in well over 35 years. It is a low-hour turntable. I got the most use of it back in the '80s when I used it to copy LPs to tape for car audio (just as CD car audio was emerging).
The platter mat was hung up on something and seems to have a permanent hump in it. Tried applying heat to it with a hair dryer but to no avail. Replaced it with an aftermarket mat.
I removed the bottom cover to look for any suspect issues like bulging or split capacitors and found none. The Size and Speed pushbuttons were seized. They are covered underneath by a sheetmetal cover, so it was easier to clean them from above. I spritzed them with a small amount of DeoxIT D5 and they quickly loosened up. I placed two drops of light oil on the spindle. The turntable powered up with no issues. The cue controls work fine but the 33 RPM speed was dead and the 33 RPM indicator would not light. Another spritz of D5 brought it back to life.
(photo not mine)
The turntable has an Azden GM-1E moving coil cartridge which I assumed was intact but a visual inspection shows that the stylus is gone. So, before I move any further with this turntable, I need to install another cartridge
Just in case anyone else runs into a similar scenario...
I pulled my dad's QL-Y5F from a cabinet where it hadn't seen the light of day in well over 35 years. It is a low-hour turntable. I got the most use of it back in the '80s when I used it to copy LPs to tape for car audio (just as CD car audio was emerging).
The platter mat was hung up on something and seems to have a permanent hump in it. Tried applying heat to it with a hair dryer but to no avail. Replaced it with an aftermarket mat.
I removed the bottom cover to look for any suspect issues like bulging or split capacitors and found none. The Size and Speed pushbuttons were seized. They are covered underneath by a sheetmetal cover, so it was easier to clean them from above. I spritzed them with a small amount of DeoxIT D5 and they quickly loosened up. I placed two drops of light oil on the spindle. The turntable powered up with no issues. The cue controls work fine but the 33 RPM speed was dead and the 33 RPM indicator would not light. Another spritz of D5 brought it back to life.
(photo not mine)
The turntable has an Azden GM-1E moving coil cartridge which I assumed was intact but a visual inspection shows that the stylus is gone. So, before I move any further with this turntable, I need to install another cartridge