This ^ did NOT work ... Already having to wiggle and jiggle....The selector switch that is.
Kenwood Basic c2 balance adjustment pot
- Thread starter purenrg
- Start date
I did order the balance pot and it arrived. it is much larger than the original ( original 1/4" or 6mm? and new one more like 3/8") and would be difficult to fit into the chassis. the pot body might even hit the board. it is a split shaft too so some work would be needed to fit the knob. And shorter.
here is a pic of the two.
The search continues...
I think that is the same one I ordered and I saw the same (basically) troubles to put it in as you did. I decided not to try and use it. Still running resistors. I really wish we could find a pot that would work in this position that would not be a pain. I know there is enough room and I can affix a ribbon cable. The problem I have is with that shaft it is knurled. I do not believe that my knob won't break if I tried to put it on there. That would mean that I would need to machine that shaft. I do not think that I have that skill and I do not know anyone who does.
DonQuixote99
just give me some truth
Machine it with a touch or two on a bench grinder, or even with a file? The end won't show and doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to be smaller.
Hello, here is a pin compatible balance pot for the C2. Identical physical size, 200kohms, audio taper, solders to the original board and works perfectly with the following 2 differences. 1. The shaft is the correct diameter, flat as original, but 5mm longer (20mm) than the original (15mm). 2. The body that solders to the balance board is keyed differently than the original. This causes the Center balance point to be rotated to around Right 9.5. I’ve been using this one for many months with no issues. Sounds great and you can’t really tell the knob isn’t straight up. Much better than the hacks, cables, jumpers, etc to fix the balance. If you can’t live with the center clocked to the right this isn’t a mod for you. If you want good balance control with no other mods you’ll like this. Easy to go back if you want.
Many have said that the resistance does not matter, but I beg to differ. I believe the original pot resistance is 180kohm from what I’ve read. There is a substantial fullness added to the sound. If you have a few minutes it’s a quick replacement.
Order from Mouser 652-PTD9021220FA204
Another close one, still keyed the same as the A204, 100kohms, linear taper, correct shaft and length (15mm). I have it but haven’t installed it. The A204 is perfect for me and no need to swap it.
Mouser 652-PTD9021215FB104
Have fun
edit; I’ll add here that both center taps have a factory bend in them. Just take some needle nose pliers and straighten those tangs. These are made by Bourn so high quality.
Many have said that the resistance does not matter, but I beg to differ. I believe the original pot resistance is 180kohm from what I’ve read. There is a substantial fullness added to the sound. If you have a few minutes it’s a quick replacement.
Order from Mouser 652-PTD9021220FA204
Another close one, still keyed the same as the A204, 100kohms, linear taper, correct shaft and length (15mm). I have it but haven’t installed it. The A204 is perfect for me and no need to swap it.
Mouser 652-PTD9021215FB104
Have fun
edit; I’ll add here that both center taps have a factory bend in them. Just take some needle nose pliers and straighten those tangs. These are made by Bourn so high quality.
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i installed this tonight and it does work.
Thanks Dave for the part number. Sometimes I like to adjust the balance and this is much better than a pair of resistors.
DonQuixote99
just give me some truth
This I have ordered.
Great to have this replacement identified. Thank you @dave99
Will this work for the headphone pot as well? That bit is the main weakness of the C2 I've recently acquired. It is very scratchy and hard to get sound going on both channels. There's often hum. But when you find exactly the right spot it's very nice. But it's never stable enough for me to just leave alone and listen with headphones. I tried re-soldering and it didn't change anything.
Deoxit has helped the volume pot (was a little scratchy, now perfect) and some other pieces, but has not done anything for the balance or headphone pots. Luckily my balance pot is only a little scratchy and is fine when just left at center. But if I'm going to do a Mouser order and fix up the headphone pot, I'll do the balance one as well.
Will this work for the headphone pot as well? That bit is the main weakness of the C2 I've recently acquired. It is very scratchy and hard to get sound going on both channels. There's often hum. But when you find exactly the right spot it's very nice. But it's never stable enough for me to just leave alone and listen with headphones. I tried re-soldering and it didn't change anything.
Deoxit has helped the volume pot (was a little scratchy, now perfect) and some other pieces, but has not done anything for the balance or headphone pots. Luckily my balance pot is only a little scratchy and is fine when just left at center. But if I'm going to do a Mouser order and fix up the headphone pot, I'll do the balance one as well.
Thanks. Does anyone have any idea what available part might work as a headphone volume replacement? Or perhaps a way I could bypass the pot? It's fine if that pot is always maxed since the main volume knob always affects the headphone volume... I guess all that is lost is varying the volume of the headphones while the speakers are in use, but I've no need for doing that.
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Have bypassed the pot for now (looking at bottom of board with the 6 pot pins at the bottom right, jumpered the first two of each row together). This will work for my use. The main volume knob is always in play here. I tested some low and high-power headphones and both play well, getting very loud without distorting (don't really have to ever go above 12:00 on the knob) so I don't think any resistors are needed.
