That was my intention, if the OP opts out.The 2100 and 2105 are the same amp, but for the glass face and the meters. If you don't buy that amp for parts, I will. I have a 2105.
That was my intention, if the OP opts out.The 2100 and 2105 are the same amp, but for the glass face and the meters. If you don't buy that amp for parts, I will. I have a 2105.
Bid as high as you can go. It likely will go cheap, but maybe not.I read the description of the amp and it says that it’s already been stripped of many parts and the only guidance as to whether it has what I need still is to look at the photos. I’m not experienced enough to identify whether there is an autoformer on it still. If there is, I will most certainly buy it.
My thoughts, exactly, but that makes it a perfect donor amp!It does look like one autoformer is missing already. Who the heck trashes such a nice amp?
I think the aluminum 'decals' are available, through a 3rd party site.Can the casing of the autoformer be swapped (for appearance purposes) if desired?
The output boards appear to have been upgraded, so that is a plus, in terms of spare parts.
Good to know. I have a standing search for them and that one didn’t pop up for some reason.A really,really beat, but complete 2100 (with the power cord cut off) went for $480, the other other day.
I’ll ask. Good idea.Can the casing of the autoformer be swapped (for appearance purposes) if desired?
Love it. ThanksI think the aluminum 'decals' are available, through a 3rd party site.
The exterior can be refinished with black Appliance paint, which (I believe) is Epoxy based, and rock hard, when it dries.
Here it is:Good to know. I have a standing search for them and that one didn’t pop up for some reason.
I didn't see that particular decal on the 'Bay, (BTW, 2100/2105 Transformer Decals are identical) but there were decals for other Mcintosh models. You can always inquire, to see if a set can be fabricated. Since the decal (label) is aluminum, chances are, it will clean up to a satisfactory state.Love it. Thanks
wait until last few seconds, then give your maximum possible bid. In that way no one else would increase your bid but you will buy for last max mid+some increment. Of course this require some practice.I’ve just zoomed into the photos and it does have an autoformer. I’m not experienced at winning eBay auctions but I’ll take an aggressive run at it
You can try small test bids to check system response delay to gauge your "snipe bid" timing, if that still works. Make the sincere final bid high enough in time that a similar late strategy by others won't lose your chance.wait until last few seconds, then give your maximum possible bid. In that way no one else would increase your bid but you will buy for last max mid+some increment. Of course this require some practice.
That was my intention, if the OP opts out.
Same here. OP has Dibs on the 2100!If OP is going for it, I'll not bid on it. I don't need it that bad.
I’m definitely going for it. Thank you!If OP is going for it, I'll not bid on it. I don't need it that bad.
Such kindness from you all. Thanks. I’m going for it. Studying up on how to do so successfullySame here. OP has Dibs on the 2100!
I’m going to give it my best effort. Fingers crossedThat was my intention, if the OP opts out.
Yes sirBid as high as you can go. It likely will go cheap, but maybe not.
My two cents with the bidding.
As the last parts unit sold for $480.00 plus shipping.
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