Prefered Glue for surrounds
- Thread starter djcslice
- Start date
Definitely wasn't me!!glen65 said:
I use a white glue that I get from a fellow re-coner in Portland for foam surrounds and DC's, I have a nitrocellulose based glue that I use for lead wires and epoxy for voice coils. You can use the white glue on poly/rubber IF there is a large surface contact area AND you rough up BOTH with some crokus cloth and then wipe them down with 99% alcohol.
Also, the alcohol dissolves old foam without damage to anything else.
mrbowtie
Active Member
Ok sorry if this has already been said but I didnt want to read 3 pages of glue opinions to find it. I have had really good luck with a Liquid Nails glue. I found it at lowes I think its called "perfect GLUE 1" When it sets up its not hard or brittle, it dries flexible so it can move with the speaker. I think its just about 3 bucks or so. It will say on the back of the package of this glue that it sets up flexible.
surround gluing
No matter how good the glue is, DO NOT go over unremoved detritus from the old surround. Any leftover crud only imbalances the final product and makes a less than perfect seal, not something you want. Sure, with a driver that has a lot of clearance in the voice coil, you can get by, but why? If you're gonna do it, do it right.
By the way, this is my first post to the forum. I originally found it looking for some other info, but got dragged in to this and other areas because I used to do speaker repair and I couldn't help myself.
buck
No matter how good the glue is, DO NOT go over unremoved detritus from the old surround. Any leftover crud only imbalances the final product and makes a less than perfect seal, not something you want. Sure, with a driver that has a lot of clearance in the voice coil, you can get by, but why? If you're gonna do it, do it right.
By the way, this is my first post to the forum. I originally found it looking for some other info, but got dragged in to this and other areas because I used to do speaker repair and I couldn't help myself.
buck
Doing speakers with Poly Cones ...
Regarding Infinity Poly-Cone speakers and other that use hard plastic cones, I have only used the special glue supplied with the poly speaker kit for the cone side.
I used Aileen's for the basket side as there was still some old glue residue that I could not get off without really getting extreme on the metal. It was pliable and accepted the Aileen's just fine. It gave me more setup time to get the outside to play nice without having to cut the dust cap and shim.
After doing the cone side one evening with poly compatible glue, I worked the next day by just laying a bead of Aileen's around the frame, let the cone/foam drop onto it, and allowed the spider to set the centering, then pressed the outer edge of the foam into the glue. As the glue started to set, I pushed the cone up and down to make sure it was free without rubbing. Adjusted as necessary and as the glue set, all was good :yes:
I have used shims for other re-foam projects. To me, it's all about how much centering force the spider has? If it's stiff, you can pretty well get away without shims. If it's floppy after the original foam rim comes off, you'll need shims.
Regarding Infinity Poly-Cone speakers and other that use hard plastic cones, I have only used the special glue supplied with the poly speaker kit for the cone side.
I used Aileen's for the basket side as there was still some old glue residue that I could not get off without really getting extreme on the metal. It was pliable and accepted the Aileen's just fine. It gave me more setup time to get the outside to play nice without having to cut the dust cap and shim.
After doing the cone side one evening with poly compatible glue, I worked the next day by just laying a bead of Aileen's around the frame, let the cone/foam drop onto it, and allowed the spider to set the centering, then pressed the outer edge of the foam into the glue. As the glue started to set, I pushed the cone up and down to make sure it was free without rubbing. Adjusted as necessary and as the glue set, all was good :yes:
I have used shims for other re-foam projects. To me, it's all about how much centering force the spider has? If it's stiff, you can pretty well get away without shims. If it's floppy after the original foam rim comes off, you'll need shims.
This is a good place for AR info. It's been undergoing changes lately, so bear with them.
http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/
I never met a Teledyne that I didn't like
http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/
I never met a Teledyne that I didn't like
totem
Addicted Member
Surrounds a new adhesive? A little long winded
I must start out by saying, I have little previous experience using other "surround" adhesives, so I can only relate my findings to this one.
The drivers were by all accounts going to be somewhat difficult to deal with, EV 15 inch woofers from the Sentry III,s.
I won,t get into the whole story regarding obtaining the actual surrounds, but let,s just say I would not be able to replace the ones I had if I screwed it up.
I have used many types of adhesives in other applications,
so I read the posts and looked at the various products recommended in stores when possible, ie drying time, consistency, flexibility, color, and just what it was made of.
I ended up buying a Permatex product, id #25832 marketed as an automotive
general purpose adhesive. Pit Crews Choice.
This is what I found.
consistency: is similar to tooth paste, does not run.
initial tack time: 5 min depending on temp. Note this is prior to contact being made, both surfaces must be coated.
level of initial tack/bond: high
ability to shift both surfaces once bonded, but prior to full cure: excellent
total cure time: stated as 24 hours, seemed usable at several hours but I waited specified time.
flexibility after curing: good
color: semi transparent
Due to the consistency stated above, spreading the product out with a small
implement or brush is required.
Overall this product worked well for me, particularly in the high level of initial tack, yet the ability to be shifted if needed, at 10 minutes after contact product can be separated with no visual damage to foam or cone, This may vary with temp and materials used.
I will use this again.
I must start out by saying, I have little previous experience using other "surround" adhesives, so I can only relate my findings to this one.
The drivers were by all accounts going to be somewhat difficult to deal with, EV 15 inch woofers from the Sentry III,s.
I won,t get into the whole story regarding obtaining the actual surrounds, but let,s just say I would not be able to replace the ones I had if I screwed it up.
I have used many types of adhesives in other applications,
so I read the posts and looked at the various products recommended in stores when possible, ie drying time, consistency, flexibility, color, and just what it was made of.
I ended up buying a Permatex product, id #25832 marketed as an automotive
general purpose adhesive. Pit Crews Choice.
This is what I found.
consistency: is similar to tooth paste, does not run.
initial tack time: 5 min depending on temp. Note this is prior to contact being made, both surfaces must be coated.
level of initial tack/bond: high
ability to shift both surfaces once bonded, but prior to full cure: excellent
total cure time: stated as 24 hours, seemed usable at several hours but I waited specified time.
flexibility after curing: good
color: semi transparent
Due to the consistency stated above, spreading the product out with a small
implement or brush is required.
Overall this product worked well for me, particularly in the high level of initial tack, yet the ability to be shifted if needed, at 10 minutes after contact product can be separated with no visual damage to foam or cone, This may vary with temp and materials used.
I will use this again.
Hi,
I was on a search for a refoam glue that matched the stuff that came with several refoam kits I've used in the past (white, looks like Elmer's but acts like contact cement - apply to both sides, allow to dry, press together). I ran across "The Ultimate" from a company called Crafter's Pick that is just like the kit glue. Michael's and Hobby Lobby carry it.
Regards,
-Entropy
I was on a search for a refoam glue that matched the stuff that came with several refoam kits I've used in the past (white, looks like Elmer's but acts like contact cement - apply to both sides, allow to dry, press together). I ran across "The Ultimate" from a company called Crafter's Pick that is just like the kit glue. Michael's and Hobby Lobby carry it.
Regards,
-Entropy
Hi,
I'm going to be restoring a pair of KLH 17's - it's my first time working with speaker building/rebuilding, so I'm trying to get all the info I can before starting out. I haven't opened them up yet at all, but I've read that the surrounds are cloth, not foam, which means that they usually simply need to be redoped for a better seal. I read in a couple of places that a some people have used watered down latex caulk for this. Is there any reason that might be better than contact cement? I bought this stuff called Pliobond (3.95 at Ace Hardware), which touts itself as flexible contact cement. Any thoughts on using this stuff on cloth surrounds? Thanks!
Tyler
I'm going to be restoring a pair of KLH 17's - it's my first time working with speaker building/rebuilding, so I'm trying to get all the info I can before starting out. I haven't opened them up yet at all, but I've read that the surrounds are cloth, not foam, which means that they usually simply need to be redoped for a better seal. I read in a couple of places that a some people have used watered down latex caulk for this. Is there any reason that might be better than contact cement? I bought this stuff called Pliobond (3.95 at Ace Hardware), which touts itself as flexible contact cement. Any thoughts on using this stuff on cloth surrounds? Thanks!
Tyler
spkrdtr
spkrfixer
Check out the thread in the Acoustic Research forum over at the Classic Speaker Pages that refers to a new tacky sealer made by Permatex for sealing cloth surrounds. Before you rush to re-dope, check out the surrounds closely. They may not need it. Adding more dope will tend to stiffen the surround and raise the box Fc. A simple test is to gently push in on the base of the woofer cone and see how quickly it comes back to its original position. If it retracks slowly, the seal is okay.
Thanks for the advice, spkrdtr. I'm going to go trek out in the snow today and see if I can find some of that Permatex gasket sealer. Looks like that's definitely the way to go here. I also tried your suggestion for testing out the surround, and as far as I can tell, it looks like it needs to be re-doped as it basically springs back up instantly. If I can't find the Permatex, I may just go with the Pliobond, since, after doing some more research on the net, it appears the stuff is fairly true to its word, and remains flexible even under tough conditions and temps (and hopefully, therefore, after some aging).
Reading through this thread there looks to be a few types of commercially available glue that are strongly recommended:
Weldbond
Aleene's Tacky Glue
There are also a couple of "industrial" products
3M 847
Permatex 25832 (This permatex product is not listed on their website so the ID number may have changed)
Has anyone used the 3M 847? It's kind of expensive but looks like good stuff.
- Pete
Weldbond
Aleene's Tacky Glue
There are also a couple of "industrial" products
3M 847
Permatex 25832 (This permatex product is not listed on their website so the ID number may have changed)
Has anyone used the 3M 847? It's kind of expensive but looks like good stuff.
- Pete
sanfrandenny
New Member
Best glue for replacing surrounds
I have done a lot of surround replacements and found a glue available at craft stores like Michaels or JoAnns fabrics.. the name is Aleenes, The a few different type I settled in on using the "Clear Gel Tacky Glue" it goes on clear abd dries clear..it comes in an easily held and manipulated 4 oz. plastic squeeze bottle with an applicator tip.. It goes on easy, the flow is very controlable and it sets up in 20 to 30 minutes.. so you have some time to re-manipulate the surround until it is in the right place.. I let the job set up over night in a warm work room..the speakers will be ready to install and turn up the volume..The glue is around $2.60 to $3.00 well worth it..It does it "Good" !! P.S. I only use shims if the dust cap needs replaced. setting the cone dead center is fairly easy after one bad alignment which I was able to re-do I got the hang of it..It is fun and easy as pie!
~~~~ Best Wishes you all,sanfrandenny
I have done a lot of surround replacements and found a glue available at craft stores like Michaels or JoAnns fabrics.. the name is Aleenes, The a few different type I settled in on using the "Clear Gel Tacky Glue" it goes on clear abd dries clear..it comes in an easily held and manipulated 4 oz. plastic squeeze bottle with an applicator tip.. It goes on easy, the flow is very controlable and it sets up in 20 to 30 minutes.. so you have some time to re-manipulate the surround until it is in the right place.. I let the job set up over night in a warm work room..the speakers will be ready to install and turn up the volume..The glue is around $2.60 to $3.00 well worth it..It does it "Good" !! P.S. I only use shims if the dust cap needs replaced. setting the cone dead center is fairly easy after one bad alignment which I was able to re-do I got the hang of it..It is fun and easy as pie!
~~~~ Best Wishes you all,sanfrandenny
