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Recapping a Tandberg TR-2080

Hope you'll publish a complete parts list when it's all finished... not a lot of these that have been gone thru completely so the documentation online is thin.

John
 
Hope you'll publish a complete parts list when it's all finished.

Will do. The BOM won't be perfect and it won't suit everyone's approach, but it'll be a start for their own journey. So far the parts have gone really well. Only big hurdle left Ian restringing the tuner.
 
Using non-inductive resistors is the best choice in order to reduce the circuit inductance. These are more expensive.
 
Weird... I keep finding that responses I've posted in this thread disappear and show up as unfinished drafts - trying again on this one.

Hope you'll publish a complete parts list when it's all finished... not a lot of these that have been gone thru completely so the documentation is thin at best.

John
 
Weird... I keep finding that responses I've posted in this thread disappear and show up as unfinished drafts - trying again on this one.

Hope you'll publish a complete parts list when it's all finished... not a lot of these that have been gone thru completely so the documentation is thin at best.

John

Will do. I just wanna correct my mistakes before publishing.
 
More contact area. I doubt it will make a meaningful difference but it might be technically better.

Ah! Rotate the transistor's position inside the heatsink so more of the transistor's backside is pressing against the surface of the heat sink. That makes sense, but doing so put the Leads right on the edge of the heat sink and I wanted to avoid touching.

I misunderstood @paul_ral and thought he was suggesting the pinout difference could be solved by rotating the transistor's ECB around to BCE.
 
Me thinks that would end badly.

I couldn't find a proper-spec current-production TO-126 or TO-220 with EBC, so I just insulated the legs and bent the pins to accommodate the pinout. I thought paul_ral was suggesting rotating the ECB transistor would solve the problem. I wasn't thinking broadly enough. The recommendation for using more surface contact between transistor and heat sink makes way more sense now that it was stated a second way. Gotta love AK!
 
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In case the heatsink is longer you can drill a hole and fix the transistor so as that heatsink lean on PCB

I... had... not... thought... of... that! Great idea!

Thanks! That makes, like, 11 things I've learned so far on this Tandberg.
 
What happened to the OEM driver heat sinks that brace against the boards? Can see those here:

FAu2JaR.jpg


John
 
What happened to the OEM driver heat sinks that brace against the boards?

The heat sinks you're pointing out were still in the TR-2080.

There were six TO-126 or TO-220 or similar transistors on that board without heatsinks:

  • BF381 at Q909,Q910
  • 2SB528 at Q907,Q911,Q908,Q912

Two of those had overheated bad enough to burn the PCB. So, they all got replaced with higher dissipation devices and added heatsinks.

IMG_8805.JPG
 
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