doctor fuse
Super Member
3verything went good after boiling a year old red silicon belt for 10 minutes, then wiping it, the subplatter rim, and the pulley groove, with isopropyl alcohol.
Rega Owner's Thread
- Thread starter Art K.
- Start date
3verything went good after boiling a year old red silicon belt for 10 minutes, then wiping it, the subplatter rim, and the pulley groove, with isopropyl alcohol.
seannc
Member
Just tried your method and got 'er down to 0.20%. Progress!
doctor fuse
Super Member
I'm becoming a convert to the Church of Rega, R. Handy, Minister.
I've been doing the usual maintenance, changing the drive belt, and just put on a new suspension belt, added three tiny bits of Blutac between the subplatter and platter, added rubber bands to the bearing well exterior, changed the mat to an Angstrom Ultimat I had lying around, put it in my main system, on a more stable shelf than before, and made a good stand for it out of a thick wood cutting board and three racquetball halves as feet.
But the biggest improvement came from Macguyvering a thrust pad between the spindle bearing end, and ball bearing. I made it out of an HDPE tofu container, slippery white plastic that is app. 0.6mm thick. Just eyeballed a bad circle the size of the spindle diameter, and free handed it woth scissors. A total crap job.
But WOW! A real night and day difference. Audible wow and flutter is gone (it wasn't, doing just the other mods). And the entire sonic presentation is hugely improved. I really can't believe it.
Now I want to find a thin piece of Teflon and make a real thrust pad.
TRY IT!
I've been doing the usual maintenance, changing the drive belt, and just put on a new suspension belt, added three tiny bits of Blutac between the subplatter and platter, added rubber bands to the bearing well exterior, changed the mat to an Angstrom Ultimat I had lying around, put it in my main system, on a more stable shelf than before, and made a good stand for it out of a thick wood cutting board and three racquetball halves as feet.
But the biggest improvement came from Macguyvering a thrust pad between the spindle bearing end, and ball bearing. I made it out of an HDPE tofu container, slippery white plastic that is app. 0.6mm thick. Just eyeballed a bad circle the size of the spindle diameter, and free handed it woth scissors. A total crap job.
But WOW! A real night and day difference. Audible wow and flutter is gone (it wasn't, doing just the other mods). And the entire sonic presentation is hugely improved. I really can't believe it.
Now I want to find a thin piece of Teflon and make a real thrust pad.
TRY IT!
doctor fuse
Super Member
I dropped the motor out of my Planar 3 the other day. Nice difference, subtle but improved quiet background.
Six free and very effective mods now, which have made the Rega as good as (or better than) my Thorens TD160 (it's now all about the arm, baby).
1. Tonearm dampening system
2. Salvador Dali Longhorn Handlebar Moustache
3. Homemade spindle bearing thrust plate
4. Motor Isolation base and adjustment
5. Replaced stock felt mat with Mission rubber mat
6. Isolation platform made from thick wood cutting board, on racquetball halves as legs
It took a while to adjust the table so the pulley/motor was in just the right position, but now speed is 33.31, and wow and flutter is 0.13%. Pretty good for a Rega!
Six free and very effective mods now, which have made the Rega as good as (or better than) my Thorens TD160 (it's now all about the arm, baby).
1. Tonearm dampening system
2. Salvador Dali Longhorn Handlebar Moustache
3. Homemade spindle bearing thrust plate
4. Motor Isolation base and adjustment
5. Replaced stock felt mat with Mission rubber mat
6. Isolation platform made from thick wood cutting board, on racquetball halves as legs
It took a while to adjust the table so the pulley/motor was in just the right position, but now speed is 33.31, and wow and flutter is 0.13%. Pretty good for a Rega!
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DaaDaa
Set the controls for the heart of the pun
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StuartB
Super Member
So I have been reading some of the motor isolation posts but I don't have a clear idea of what, if anything, I should do. I recently picked up a used Rega RP6. The previous owner upgraded to all the Groovetracer options and added the white belt. I have been wondering if I should try to better isolate the motor on this turntable.
I am really enjoying the table and do not think I hear a lot of motor noise getting to my ears. I have seen the Michael Lim and other options to better isolate the Rega motor (some don't actually remove the motor from the plinth).. Anyone have experience specifically on an RP6?
Thanks.
I am really enjoying the table and do not think I hear a lot of motor noise getting to my ears. I have seen the Michael Lim and other options to better isolate the Rega motor (some don't actually remove the motor from the plinth).. Anyone have experience specifically on an RP6?
Thanks.
euromut
Active Member
I was working on this a year or so ago, but a divorce got me pretty distracted.
I have a prototype I am willing to let someone try. I am still using the original Delrin prototype on mine. From that, I designed and build a 3D printed model. It will sit on the surface under the turntable. and fits up into the motor pocket. the motor slips into the mount snugly and needs no screws. On the printed version, I designes in a trough and buries BBs in epoxy to give the mount some weight. Designed to work with a stock, non raised Rega RP3, RP6. Would need 1/4 inch high feet for the mount to sit on (I used 1/2 sorbothane hemispheres). The motor cover, and circuit board need to be relocated.
Delrin prototype
The one I have for testing
doctor fuse
Super Member
I was working on this a year or so ago, but a divorce got me pretty distracted.
I have a prototype I am willing to let someone try. I am still using the original Delrin prototype on mine. From that, I designed and build a 3D printed model. It will sit on the surface under the turntable. and fits up into the motor pocket. the motor slips into the mount snugly and needs no screws. On the printed version, I designes in a trough and buries BBs in epoxy to give the mount some weight. Designed to work with a stock, non raised Rega RP3, RP6. Would need 1/4 inch high feet for the mount to sit on (I used 1/2 sorbothane hemispheres). The motor cover, and circuit board need to be relocated.
Delrin prototype
The one I have for testing
I would be very interested in trying your prototype mount. Much nicer than my scavenged parts and elastics (even if it is in keeping with the Rega ethos).
doctor fuse
Super Member
No experience with the RP6, but the difference is very subtle even on my Planar 3. But I bet I would now notice if I put it back in original form, and mounted the motor back on the plinth.
It is really only worth doing if you enjoy the process, IMO (especially since an RP6 is already quite a bit nore refined than my Planar, I imagine). Otherwise, just enjoy the music!
euromut
Active Member
I just want to make sure your using a 24V motor. Also, can you measure the height between the bottom of your plinth, and the cutting board its sitting on. My mount is based on 1 inch high feet.
doctor fuse
Super Member
Ack, alas, no, mine is 90s vintage, with what I believe to be a 110V synchronous motor.
euromut
Active Member
Let me see if I can verify that motors dimensions. I am not sure if its the same size/shape as the 24v. The 24v has a 2 inch diameter.
doctor fuse
Super Member
Planar 3 is back to having wow and flutter performance issues.
It's driving me nuts because when she sounds good, she sounds so goid, but when the speed stability goes to pot, she's unlistenable.
Do I really have to buy a new motor?
It's driving me nuts because when she sounds good, she sounds so goid, but when the speed stability goes to pot, she's unlistenable.
Do I really have to buy a new motor?
AikiAudio
Active Member
Hello there! I posted a few pics of the new P8 on the TT forum, but I felt compelled to post here as well.
I started life with a Rp1, after a few months I "had" to go for the Rp3. Slowly I upgraded my carts and got the Ortofon Blue 2M and the Dynavector 10x5. The TT PSU came right after. Maybe 2 years ago I found a deal on a P6 and brought it home. Hana EH cart and the AT 750 also became part of the family. Last year I brought back home a Hana SL from trip to NY.
With the crazy pandemic we are more at home than even. I found a deal on a P8 and decided to go for it. What an amazing turn table. I am using the Hana SL on it. I have never heard my system so clearly. Really cool engineering, the light weight Rega philosophy comes to life on the P8 plinth.
Of course the Rp3 (still) and the P6 also sound amazing, specially the P6. But the P8 is definitely a level up. Thank you Roy Gandy!
I started life with a Rp1, after a few months I "had" to go for the Rp3. Slowly I upgraded my carts and got the Ortofon Blue 2M and the Dynavector 10x5. The TT PSU came right after. Maybe 2 years ago I found a deal on a P6 and brought it home. Hana EH cart and the AT 750 also became part of the family. Last year I brought back home a Hana SL from trip to NY.
With the crazy pandemic we are more at home than even. I found a deal on a P8 and decided to go for it. What an amazing turn table. I am using the Hana SL on it. I have never heard my system so clearly. Really cool engineering, the light weight Rega philosophy comes to life on the P8 plinth.
Of course the Rp3 (still) and the P6 also sound amazing, specially the P6. But the P8 is definitely a level up. Thank you Roy Gandy!
StuartB
Super Member
This showed up on my front porch yesterday...
Can I keep it? Can I?
I believe you can. Congrats!
johnjhazel
PhxJohn
I like the Rega sleek look but need a table that is more challenging to lift and move around. Something like a Sota.
I wish I could still lift one of the SOTA's that I like. Such as the Sapphire, Nova, or Cosmos. I was a body builder for decades but will be 66 next month. With a complete shoulder and humerus replacements and two crushed vertebrae, it is no longer possible.
