I would try just mounting the drivers on the baffle, then wire them out of phase and see at
what vertical angle the null lands. That is your listening axis and best is to have it at ear
level or slightly up as a compromise between seated and standing.
You could start with the WG on top of the enclosure and see what depth puts the null in
the right spot.
what vertical angle the null lands. That is your listening axis and best is to have it at ear
level or slightly up as a compromise between seated and standing.
You could start with the WG on top of the enclosure and see what depth puts the null in
the right spot.
Hello again... the project got sidelined due to some family things and potty training, but I am back for until the next emergency.
I now have everything on hand needed to get the speakers built up. I had made a few cuts until life took over but I'll make the remaining cuts next week and get the cabinets built up.
I have started looking at the crossover (thanks Earlk!) as I would like to get that built up. I have recapped a handful of XO's and rebuilt 2 for my old La Scala's and a JBL L19. However, this will be my first time building the XO from scratch. Using Earlk's XO design shown below, I have created the wiring diagram below. Red positive, black negative. One thing to note is that I replaced the L Pad resistors on EarlK's schematic with the L Pad wiring diagram. I am confident on how to wire it all up except for C2, L2 and L3. Not completely sure how these would slot in when actually wiring it all up. Is my wiring diagram correct? Does my diagram make sense to anyone but me
.
I now have everything on hand needed to get the speakers built up. I had made a few cuts until life took over but I'll make the remaining cuts next week and get the cabinets built up.
I have started looking at the crossover (thanks Earlk!) as I would like to get that built up. I have recapped a handful of XO's and rebuilt 2 for my old La Scala's and a JBL L19. However, this will be my first time building the XO from scratch. Using Earlk's XO design shown below, I have created the wiring diagram below. Red positive, black negative. One thing to note is that I replaced the L Pad resistors on EarlK's schematic with the L Pad wiring diagram. I am confident on how to wire it all up except for C2, L2 and L3. Not completely sure how these would slot in when actually wiring it all up. Is my wiring diagram correct? Does my diagram make sense to anyone but me
.
Update.... finished cutting the wood for the enclosures and wired up one of the crossovers. Will be glueing up the cabinets soon hSand just completed the first crossover.
The Crossover has to be the ugliest XO I've seen, except for the Heresy II XO I recapped that was all glued up into a ball on the back of the terminal cup. But these are just the first draft so I'll worry about looks once it's dialed in. My first time building a XO from scratch... component placement is hard!
Hoping to have the Speakers built up to listen to by the end of the year. Hoping they sound better than the XO looks.
thanks again for all the help... even though it has taken a long time to get even this far, I would not have gotten here without all the amazing help from this forum... thank you!
The Crossover has to be the ugliest XO I've seen, except for the Heresy II XO I recapped that was all glued up into a ball on the back of the terminal cup. But these are just the first draft so I'll worry about looks once it's dialed in. My first time building a XO from scratch... component placement is hard!
Hoping to have the Speakers built up to listen to by the end of the year. Hoping they sound better than the XO looks
.thanks again for all the help... even though it has taken a long time to get even this far, I would not have gotten here without all the amazing help from this forum... thank you!
Finally finished the cabs and got it all together last night. Took a quick listen in my office and was happy with the sound knowing I was listening at very low volume and near field since everyone was sleeping by the time I finished. Definitely better than I kept telling myself they would sound. Then this morning I hooked them up on my main system and was shocked at how good they sound. The bass was full and punchy with good definition. Could do with some tightening up but I still need to add fiberglass. That should help. Mids and higs were very good also. It really surprised at first song just how clear and lush the mids sounded. These are really cheap CD’s!
The issues I heard was the imaging and HF level. Vocals were pulling right on songs I know should be centered. My setup wasn’t the most fastidious so proper placement could help resolve some.
And the HF level is too low, just by a little. The HF sounded great but I had the Lpad turned up full and still felt the some songs needed a bit more high end. Would like to get the HF attenuated less to give the L pad a more usable range. EarlK, how do I reduce the HF attenuation and keep the XO point intact?
I am still giddy at how good it sounded. I thought it would take much more time tweaking to get to this point. So I have to thank the forum for all the help and encouragement in speeding up the process!
Thank you EarlK, your XO really works awesome. PeteB and Grindstone, appreciate the guidance and encouragement. You guys have made me a believer and in the Econowave!
now that I know these are going to be a keepers I want to get them in some pretty cabs.
The issues I heard was the imaging and HF level. Vocals were pulling right on songs I know should be centered. My setup wasn’t the most fastidious so proper placement could help resolve some.
And the HF level is too low, just by a little. The HF sounded great but I had the Lpad turned up full and still felt the some songs needed a bit more high end. Would like to get the HF attenuated less to give the L pad a more usable range. EarlK, how do I reduce the HF attenuation and keep the XO point intact?
I am still giddy at how good it sounded. I thought it would take much more time tweaking to get to this point. So I have to thank the forum for all the help and encouragement in speeding up the process!
Thank you EarlK, your XO really works awesome. PeteB and Grindstone, appreciate the guidance and encouragement. You guys have made me a believer and in the Econowave!
now that I know these are going to be a keepers I want to get them in some pretty cabs.
@loaded
If you have the capability ( using REW and a test-mic ) you should make a response graph ( taken, on axis from @ 20" out > dead-center to the horn ) and then compare my predicted "flat" HF response ( above 1.5K ) to what you get /// currently have.
PS: I had an early (& great ) Christmas Turkey dinner last night >> so I'm good for now.
If you have the capability ( using REW and a test-mic ) you should make a response graph ( taken, on axis from @ 20" out > dead-center to the horn ) and then compare my predicted "flat" HF response ( above 1.5K ) to what you get /// currently have.
PS: I had an early (& great ) Christmas Turkey dinner last night >> so I'm good for now.
@loaded Do you have an Android or Apple phone, and do you have an RTA on it?
Do you have a test track with pink noise?
Reverse the wiring to the horn, play pink noise with the mic on the axis of the horn, move the horn
back until you see the deepest null in the response. Now put the horn polarity back to normal.
You can also simply try reversing the horn polarity on the theory that you've got weak output
due to a null, if this is true the output will significantly increase - how does it sound?
You should place the woofer as close as possible to the horn to minimize the center to center (CTC)
spacing which will improve the vertical polar characteristics. Or, you could have placed the
woofer lower, leaving room to mount the horn on the front baffle, again as close as possible
to the woofer for the best polar response.
Note the CTC: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_700CW4BA/Klipsch-Heritage-Cornwall-IV-Satin-Black-Ash.html
Do you have a test track with pink noise?
Reverse the wiring to the horn, play pink noise with the mic on the axis of the horn, move the horn
back until you see the deepest null in the response. Now put the horn polarity back to normal.
You can also simply try reversing the horn polarity on the theory that you've got weak output
due to a null, if this is true the output will significantly increase - how does it sound?
You should place the woofer as close as possible to the horn to minimize the center to center (CTC)
spacing which will improve the vertical polar characteristics. Or, you could have placed the
woofer lower, leaving room to mount the horn on the front baffle, again as close as possible
to the woofer for the best polar response.
Note the CTC: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_700CW4BA/Klipsch-Heritage-Cornwall-IV-Satin-Black-Ash.html
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I should be able to get to this later next week after Christmas with the mic in hand. Thank you!@loaded
Here's a pic that I suspect shows your current HF response ( green trace ) vs the "as-designed" HF response ( purple trace ).
View attachment 3378823
You should measure one of your units ( sooner than later ) to see if I'm correct > to help you move beyond my conjecture.
I do have an iPad with an RTA app and I do have a pink noise track. I will run your test when I have the Mic next week.
I will try reversing the polarity on the horns to see if there is an increase output. I’ll report on that after.
Thanks for the guidance.