manual rek-o-kut
- Thread starter gaseff
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malden
Lunatic Member
would be nice to see some photos of it, top and bottom
![IMG_5194[1].JPG](/forums/data/attachments/3265/3265106-e2ee8374510cd9673eff99bfbaa00a0a.jpg?hash=4u6DdFEM2W "IMG_5194[1].JPG")
Your biggest problem is that the headshell is unusable - the bayonet section is broken off. You might be able to superglue or JB weld it back, but there isn't a whole lot of contact area, so the glue may not hold. If it was sold to you as a good headshell, you have a legitimate beef with the seller/shipping company. Headshells are available on the used market, but they are not cheap. The bayonet mount looks like the standard SME/Japanese headshell, but the two ESL arms I've had used a diamond shaped orientation for the pins rather than the standard square orientation, but there is no compatibility. And, if I recall correctly, the spring loaded set of pins are in the headshell, not the arm, so when you solder the wires to the pins, you have a chance of melting the plastic and immobilizing the pins.
It looks like the arm is set up for stereo - you have a red and a white hot, and two black grounds (and a pencilled in R and L), but there is only one RCA off the solder tabs. Easy fix.
It looks like the arm is set up for stereo - you have a red and a white hot, and two black grounds (and a pencilled in R and L), but there is only one RCA off the solder tabs. Easy fix.
twiiii
Lunatic Member
They were pretty primitive noisy and rumbling turntables even when new. The tone arm was just as bad in its own way! Of course back then my first two speaker systems could barely reach 45 HZ having a noisy turntable wasn't the issue it is today with our more capable speakers and electronics. When I got my Altec Carmels with two 414 woofers I found myself having to update my TT very quickly. The little AR was a choice, but an Empire 598 was a better choice.
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@gaseff, hope this helps.
Here is an AK thread on Rek-O-Kut turntables (if you didn't already find it).
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/rek-o-kut-turntables-rok.146608/
https://ia800309.us.archive.org/22/...Kut_turntables_disc_recording_1960_REM_24.pdf
manual and template courtesy of vinylengine.com
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/rek-o-kut/rondine-junior-l-34.shtml
Here is an AK thread on Rek-O-Kut turntables (if you didn't already find it).
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/rek-o-kut-turntables-rok.146608/
https://ia800309.us.archive.org/22/...Kut_turntables_disc_recording_1960_REM_24.pdf
manual and template courtesy of vinylengine.com
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/rek-o-kut/rondine-junior-l-34.shtml
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evaluate, clean, lube are the usual first steps.
You already know about the headshell
Looks like the ground strap on the motor is broken. That needs to tie to the main chassis, you should be able to find the other end of it and repair or replace it. Solder braid actually works well for this if you need a source of braided wire.
There is(or should be) a ball bearing down in the well. Make sure you get that out. You can pull the whole well out of the plate to clean it out. Makes flushing with solvent somewhat easier. An ISO-46 or ISO-68 machine or hydraulic oil works well here. The motor I think calls for ISO-32. A couple drops in each of the oil spouts ought to do if the motor runs well otherwise.
A drop of oil on the idler wheel shafts wouldn't be a bad idea, but don't be surprised if the idlers are hard and it won't adjust to proper speed. I found with mine that the hard, original idlers made it run fast and noisy.
If the motor mounts are in bad shape, new ones can be had from the original manufacturer. they can be found on ebay listings if you look for L34 motor mount.
You already know about the headshell
Looks like the ground strap on the motor is broken. That needs to tie to the main chassis, you should be able to find the other end of it and repair or replace it. Solder braid actually works well for this if you need a source of braided wire.
There is(or should be) a ball bearing down in the well. Make sure you get that out. You can pull the whole well out of the plate to clean it out. Makes flushing with solvent somewhat easier. An ISO-46 or ISO-68 machine or hydraulic oil works well here. The motor I think calls for ISO-32. A couple drops in each of the oil spouts ought to do if the motor runs well otherwise.
A drop of oil on the idler wheel shafts wouldn't be a bad idea, but don't be surprised if the idlers are hard and it won't adjust to proper speed. I found with mine that the hard, original idlers made it run fast and noisy.
If the motor mounts are in bad shape, new ones can be had from the original manufacturer. they can be found on ebay listings if you look for L34 motor mount.
adnick
Addicted Member
Congrats on the table 
The tonearm is an ESL made by Ortofon and is actually an early stereo arm that’s quite good. They have very good bearing, the counterweight is laterally weighted/adjustable and isolated by the material that’s failing in your example above; you’d need an ESL/EMT diamond pattern headshell.
VR
Andy
The tonearm is an ESL made by Ortofon and is actually an early stereo arm that’s quite good. They have very good bearing, the counterweight is laterally weighted/adjustable and isolated by the material that’s failing in your example above; you’d need an ESL/EMT diamond pattern headshell.
VR
Andy
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