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manual rek-o-kut

You need something that fits both the metal rod and the counterweight, sort of a press fit too both, I’ve used some Delrin tube, but hard rubber or other plastic would work.

Here’s another one, you can see the rod in this picture
IMG_1040.jpeg
 
Arm wiring diagram looks like what I'm doing with mine. Different arm, but that doesn't really matter.
 
Thanks. Appreciate the affirmation. Headed back to work now that the snow in Virginia has settled. I will probably be posting less in the near future.
 
I used a section of the plastic barrel from a BIC pen on one, and the other I used red science lab hose. Both seems to work well (rubber is a lot easier to shove into a metal tube if you wet it). I assume that devotees of less decoupling and devotees of more decoupling will disagree about which approach is better. But the lab hose really looked exactly like the original, and I suspect it probably was what Ortofon used.
 
I suspect whatever is at hand and works is the ideal solution. I'm sure that somewhere out there there are audio companies that try out all kinds of possibilities and evalutate them all rigorously (and probably go bankrupt fairly soon), but generally, good enough and cheap enough if the final decision.
And to be honest, we are talking about a pleasant hobby, not a space mission or nuclear reactor.
 
In the process of putting it bck together.

I am surprised that these two mounts are hard plastic. They are not dried and hardened rubber, but are hard plastic. I would have thought they would be pliableIMG_5325[1].JPG rubber.
 
Some numbers and photos of the decoupling things...

I found this on Amzon and will give it a shot.
Silicone Tubing 5/32"(4mm) ID X 5/16"(8mm) OD 3.3ft(1m) Silicone Rubber Tube Air Hose Pipe for Pump Transfer Red
IMG_5326.JPGIMG_5327.JPGIMG_5331.JPGIMG_5330.JPG
 

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Is it possible that the plastic discs are to immobilize the motor mounts during shipping?
 
As I was putting it back together - I just kinda came to the conclusion that since those are the bolts that connect the motor mount to the main plate that it does not matter if they are rigid. With the shock absorber grommets on the mount itself - the fact that those are rigid does not seem to matter.
 
They are used as spacers to set the motor mounting assembly down below the main chassis so the motor contacts the idler wheels correctly. The motor is isolated from that plate with the grommets.


Surprised you have 4 of them. Mine only has one at each end of that assembly. Unless I'm looking at a picture of a picture?
 
Well... I just powered it up for the first time since cleaning, replacing grommets, new ceramic ball bearing, new oil, and rejuvenated idler wheels (soaked in AT-205 Re-Seal for a couple of days). I had it at 33.35 before I started messing with the 33rpm speed stop - I should have left well-enough alone.

Only took about a 30 seconds to get up to speed on the first start.

Here is the screen shot from the RPM app. Speed seems good to me.

Not sure what the wow/flutter circle is indicating (ie the red circle on the platter). Any ideas/thoughts?

IMG_5384[1].PNG

Moving on to the tonearm wiring and headshell next.

Thanks for your help(s)!
 
Does anyone know where I can get one of these black connectors that connect to the headshell? My pins are not moving.

Thanks!

Screenshot 2025-02-08 160645.png
 
My memory is that it is the pins in the headshell that are spring loaded. But I may be confusing arms.
 
The ESL is spring loaded in the arm not the headshell, but id think one could free them up, I’d soak them in some warm soapy water and/or WD 40 :dunno:
 
They are/were spring loaded. I got mine out with modest heat. It looks like someone messed up the rubber that the pins are mounted into. Not salvageable.

Has anyone ever seen these available any place?
 
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