• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

My try at a Really Nice Rebuild Marantz 1060

I'm bidding on a 1060 right now. If I can get it at a reasonable price I may need a copy of your replacement parts list. :naughty: I'll be watching this thread closely. :thmbsp: I was going to do a swap for a 1030 but the 1060 will be a better fit.
 
Yes this is pretty much live Pingu, I just broke for dinner and finished off the p800 board. As you can see in the photo's, the glue on the bottom side of the board began to corrode the 100uf caps. All values were upped on this board as well as replacement diodes- UF4005's.

C803 was 470uf it's now 1000
C804 was 100 it's now 220
C805 was 330 and is now 680
C806 was 100 and is now 270

If appropriate to the circuit, and there is sufficient space on the board, replacement capacitors will have higher capacitance and sometimes increased voltage (especially if the original voltage rating just marginally higher than actual voltage). If the function of the capacitor is only filtering, or decoupling, then increasing the capacitance 2X-3X for small caps is usually not a problem at all (also keep in mind that caps in vintage equipment were often rated at -10%, +50%). For this particular regulated power supply board, capacitors C803, C805 and C806 are just filtering the DC, so the replacements were low ESR with about twice the original capacity. Capacitor C804 is on the base of the regulator/pass transistor and can be increased as well, but it should not exceed 330uF-470uF (my understanding is that above these values, the regulator circuit becomes "slow/sluggish", and the tightness of the regulation will be adversely affected). Regarding the diodes, I will use "soft recovery" types since these generate considerably less noise in the circuit and they cost the same as regular diodes; again their use won't hurt and will likely contribute to better sound.
 
Yes this is pretty much live Pingu, I just broke for dinner and finished off the p800 board. As you can see in the photo's, the glue on the bottom side of the board began to corrode the 100uf caps. All values were upped on this board as well as replacement diodes- UF4005's.

C803 was 470uf it's now 1000
C804 was 100 it's now 220
C805 was 330 and is now 680
C806 was 100 and is now 270


Pre replacement-

img5537x.jpg


Post replacement-

img5538av.jpg


The "bad caps", the leads simply broke off and were rusted.

img5539b.jpg


I'm now going to fire it up and give it a listen.

You have to love that power supply board wide open spaces to add the larger values. I see a Panasonic FC are the others Nichicons HE's?
 
There is no particular brand loyalty in picking the replacement capacitors, but generally used UCC KZE/KA; Panasonic FM/FR; Nichicon PW/PM for power supply/decoupling capacitors. IMO, for all intents and purposes, the aforementioned capacitors are considered equivalent; exactly what is ordered often depends on what Mouser has in stock and the price.
 
Alright i'm done for the night- I started doing the caps and resistors on the pre, now it's time to relax and watch a movie :)
 
Well I must say well done, so far. I am enjoying the workmanship (bk) & subtitles (leestereo) :D. What a great thread & rebuild so far!

Enjoy your film Bk, you have earned the rest. :)

It is interesting to see you put Mother Hubbard big caps in that amp. A bit of an eye opener. :yes:
 
This has been a great read. I'll have to check back tomorrow. You've inspired me to start considering something similar!
 
Lee I need to be schooled a bit here:

Installing the UF4005 diodes on the P/S board, the originals SIB-01-02 are 200V with 1 A forward voltage so from the spec sheet it looks like you could bump it up to a UF4004, at UF4005 the forward is now 1.7. Does that really matter? And these would be fast recovery diodes, why not soft recovery here, for lower noise.
 
I'd say if someone were to start in the refurb game this unit would be a great unit to do it to. Every board is accessible and you can't really mess it up.
 
Lee I need to be schooled a bit here:

Installing the UF4005 diodes on the P/S board, the originals SIB-01-02 are 200V with 1 A forward voltage so from the spec sheet it looks like you could bump it up to a UF4004, at UF4005 the forward is now 1.7. Does that really matter? And these would be fast recovery diodes, why not soft recovery here, for lower noise.

The UF400X series diodes are ultra fast soft recovery diodes rated at 1A, the main difference is the increasing reverse voltage rating (the data sheets don't always make it clear that they are "soft recovery" types. The two parameters, speed and soft recovery are often paired; its similar to the thread about 105°C caps: I'm not particularly concerned about the temperature rating per se, but rather the low ESR and ripple rating of these capacitors, they just happen to be also rated at 105°C. The forward voltage drop of 1V or 1.7V is somewhat minor, in this case I ordered a sh*t load of UF4005 since Mouser was clearing them out at $0.06 instead of $0.21 each. In some cases, the increased forward voltage drop is advantageous as it will compensate (by lowering the effective secondary voltage) for the higher than 120V mains voltage that most households have today (since most vintage gear was built with 117V-120V mains voltages in mind).
 
Hi, this is very interesting to watch. :smoke:

If possible please post a cap list for your rebuild. It would help us who might tackle the same in the future. Thanks!
 
I'd be happy to pm the list. I just finished the pre board less 2 resistors I am missing. There is a mistake on the board, I don't know if it's early production or not. C418 and it's match is marked R418 on the board when in fact they are .47 caps. Due to the width of the holes I had to run the wima's on the bottom of the board.

img5540g.jpg



img5542g.jpg



img5543zw.jpg
 
Last edited:
That is a nice fresh looking board with the new metal film resistors, and it looks like you went with the 5% tolerance Wima's!:music:
 
Instant power upgrade gents-the power output is back! It could be made to be loud at around 5-6 on the volume dial, now it's more like 2 or 3. I measured the coupling caps for fun, they were sitting at around half their rating, I kid you not!

I knew it sounded like ass when I had it!! Now we know why. Those were some nasty looking capacitors....
 
How is the refurb going BK. Surly you must have another update? I am on the edge of my seat here. ;)

Or is it this darn holiday we seem to be having, parts delivery delays? If so I know exactly how you feel, I want my parts too. :rolleyes:
 
Not really, i've been sicker than sick with a sinus infection and working on a nad for another ak'r. I'll be doing some soon.
 
Back
Top Bottom