I would not do it. These machines are precisely engineered.Platter polishing, has anyone used a sandflex block to do that with? I'm getting some of these blocks for another use but thought it may work well on the ol platter. Good idea or bad?
Give them a try, nothing to lose if you test them where it doesn’t show. The challenge is making deeper scratches that will be harder to refine to an acceptable level of polish in just 2 steps of grit. You may not like the results and then have to start over to do it right.Platter polishing, has anyone used a sandflex block to do that with? I'm getting some of these blocks for another use but thought it may work well on the ol platter. Good idea or bad?


Let us know please.I have polished mine some but not to a mirror like finish, not sure I want that. The reason I posted about the sandflex is that I read someone had used one on a silver faced amp the needed a good cleaning and it really worked well. That tells you how unabrasive they are, it didn't affect the lettering on the amp face and the finished product looked great, very clean. My platter is a bit streaky, splotchy, not uniform but not too bad so I may try the block to make it more uniform. I'll try an area on the top first to see what it can do. They were ordered from Amazon, a set of 3 sandflex blocks of differing abrasive. Sandflex Sanding Block - 3 Pack, Sanding Blocks - Amazon Canada
I viewed each of Dave's videos, actually this was the second time that I viewed them, and I did not come across anything that gives me a hint as to what is going on. I did find one spring assembly, the one closes to the motor, where the rubber grommet that installs on the plate, was not flush. Resetting it did not make any difference whatsoever. So I'm still stuck, without either platter installed, it is surprising how much pressure it takes to push the assembly down. When I then install both platters the assembly barely deflects downward, is that normal? I'll get a fresh start in the morning, walking through the procedure to see if something clicks.Make sure nothing binds the sub-chassis, nothing like hard, tough wiring or stupid sticky automotive bitumen damping sheets.
Watch this first part by @ddarch from VN:
and then the second part, paying attention to the part about the weak side of the springs.
Not at all. Can you show some good pictures of the sub-chassis and springs? Maybe someone's eye will catch something out of the ordinary. There's gotta be something.When I then install both platters the assembly barely deflects downward, is that normal?
I've taken several close up photos, will try to attach here along with 2 very short videos showing what happens when I push down and then release the platter. There is one thing that I noticed that seems odd, the sub chassis is flush with the chassis only at certain points. You can clearly see in the photos that in the area along the back, close to the tonearm pivot, that I can easily insert a 7mm wrench in the gap. Coming around from there towards the front and the chassis and sub chassis are flush with one another. Note that the wrench freely fits in the gap, it is not holding the two open.Not at all. Can you show some good pictures of the sub-chassis and springs? Maybe someone's eye will catch something out of the ordinary. There's gotta be something.
I had the same issue last week, that was with the original springs, I ordered the new ones to see if that would solve the problem. These are from Dave at Vinyl Nivarna, I can only assume that they are correct. The video permission thing should be fixed now, let me know if you have continued problems.Not a good one to ask since I've never done this but wrong springs? Are there different types for different models? And the video says I need to ask for permission.