We of the Idler drive set tend to be wild and bizarre!
Most great discoveries and innovations arise from people who are at least a little "wild and bizarre" by the standards of their time (and place). These are the people who tend to think sufficiently "outside the box" to see things that others who plod along in well-trodden mental ruts are less likely to see.
The downside of this, of course, is that truly insane wackos who "discover" stupid untruths also are found in areas "outside the box" and in the realm of the "wild and bizarre". One just hopes that one is the right KIND of "wild and bizarre"!
I don't think anyone has come near a conclusion yet. ...
I have come to one conclusion, but it came after some real research, thought and experimentation. I'm not revealing it outright, but giving hints and pointers for others who wish to know what it is, asking a lot of questions in a semi-Socratic approach. I'm hoping that others will come eventually to the same conclusion, in enough numbers that I can assume it's confirmed/correct, OR that they'll discover a flaw in the thinking, or some alternative explanation that makes more sense. I know of a couple of knowledgeable people who agree with it, or came up with the same conclusion on their own, already... but that doesn't mean that it is definitely true; there is at least one other possibility I'm still working on eliminating. Nothing is certain, without enough evidence to support it, and the absence of any evidence to refute it; I'm not right, just because I think so at this time.
with an idler on either the inside or outside I agree with gusten:
vertically more stable and less vibrations in the vertical plane IMO...
You are jumping to one very plausible, but as-yet unproven conclusion. The idler wheel does help reduce vibrations in the vertical plane...but it does other things, too. Which of them is the most important? Which results in the desirable improvements? Is it the "vertical damping" aspect, as you propose?
There is one way to test this "vertical plane vibrations" hypothesis. Try putting an UNPOWERED idler wheel --a free-spinning idler wheel not being driven by a motor-- against a platter that is being driven by a normal, non-idler-wheel method. Such a wheel would act the same, in terms of damping vibration in the vertical plane, but it wouldn't be doing the other things an idler wheel normally does. Compare the sound with and without the idler wheel present, and with and without it being powered. (You might want to add one more check, which is with and without the wheel being attached to the motor, both powered and unpowered, as the motor contact adds another variable(s).) If the sound improvement comes the same, whether or not the
idler is in contact with the motor, and whether or not the motor is driving it, then the improvement must be due to damping the vertical vibrations. IF, however, the improvement comes not from the simple presence of the idler wheel against the platter side, then the improvement comes from something else, not damping vertical vibrations.
If the damping of vertical vibrations alone is all that is needed for the sonic improvements, then all one has to do is add an idler wheel to the side of the platter. If that is true, the next experiment would be to see if two wheels are better than one, or three wheels better than two. Also, is a fat wheel, which would provide more resistance in the vertical plane, better than a thin one? Traditionally, people have assumed thinner edges were better than thick, as there was less scope for transmitting vibration from the motor. It is critical to find out if the motor driving the wheel is more important, or just the presence of a wheel to dampen vertical vibrations. The conclusion will have dramatic impact upon the optimal TT design.
(There is also a relevant (and once you realize it, obvious) "thought experiment" that is useful here, if anyone can think of it... but I'll leave it as another puzzle, just for fun.

If you think of it, you'll realize the answer to the above, without actually having to do the experimentation. You won't think of it, however, unless you have sufficient knowledge of different idler-drive designs and their relative performances.)
from what I have read the more poles a motor has the less effective torque a motor has so all of us who have the old 4 pole motors instead of the 16 or more poles that some motors have, will see better wow and flutter and s/n ratio than the big poles. it makes since and I verified this by checking the kenwood<trio> stable of idler/belt drives. At least for the kenwood belt/idler line this is holding true.
This is useful, solid data. You're on a good track here to some good insights and making some significant TT design decisions.
http://audio-heritage.jp/TRIO-KENWOOD/player/pc-350.html
this site has the idler/belt specs for the kenwoods if any want to check the specs
If you check the different specs you will see that the 350 uses a 4 pole motor and has better specs than the the pc 400 that has a 16 pole motor and a platter that weighs 2 pounds more
so when they gave the 400 a more pole motor they had to compensate by giving it a heavier platter or is it the reverse? I have to laugh at this as it seems they put their shoes on backwards
Manufacturers have been "putting their shoes on backwards" for a few decades, because they didn't realize enough of the full picture of why things were working as they were. LOL
That is not meant as a criticism, though: SOME things they fully understood, and did very well. They were smart engineers and we couldn't have the audio we do, without their brilliance... but one or two key things escaped the turntable engineers. Knowledge tends to build over time that way, one step here, another step there, each generation standing on the shoulders of the brilliant people who preceded them. It's easy to learn what others have already figured out, but not so easy to think of the stuff in the first place!
now I expect to get yelled at by some but I am going to share with all you some of the mods I have been doing for years on all the tables I fix up.
1. I put roofing tar for dampening on the underneath of all my platters for dampening.I have also used dynamat on the guts of the base sides also.
2. I paint a thin line of paint between headshell and up to the swivel area of the arm itself<this cancels ringing going up the arm. I have had success using the Teflon tape around the before but prefer the paint method because you can`t see it and I hated those white arms.
3. The motor plate bottom I also use a thin application of the old roofin tar
I wouldn't yell at you.

I'd pat you on the back and say "congratulations" for making some smart improvements to your TTs. :thmbsp: Everything you describe is likely to create sonic improvements. There are more and other steps you could add to these, too, to squeeze out even better performance. That's the fun part of DIY audio; there is virtually no end to how far you can carry things, and keep on improving things. Some steps make bigger differences than others, but the sum of cumulative small improvements can add up to big differences in total.