After a little research I managed to locate a 1978 Sony STR-6800sd reciever, and wow, its a monster. Unfortunately I've had to remove the side panels for it to fit into the rack, but the sound is just something else and it really drives the BC1's superbly. There is so much depth to the sound now, a lovely warm almost tube like quality. Its rated at 80wpc but that's apparently quite conservative as I've read of owners having theirs tested at over 100wpc. Its superb.
The Spendor Thread..
- Thread starter Bigerik
- Start date
beatcomber
AK Member
I just joined the Spendor club!
Analogue Seduction in the UK had a pair of B-stock demo SP3/1R2's in cherry listed, and even with int'l shipping factored in, they cost me less than 50% vs. buying new from a USA dealer.
A guy I know has a pair of '90s SP2/3's, and those have always been my benchmarks for great speakers. My expectation/hope is that these SP3/1R2's will have a similar presentation, but in a more appropriately sized package for my 8" x 12" room. Amplification will be a 1959 Fisher X-100 (EL84's).
STOKED!
Analogue Seduction in the UK had a pair of B-stock demo SP3/1R2's in cherry listed, and even with int'l shipping factored in, they cost me less than 50% vs. buying new from a USA dealer.
A guy I know has a pair of '90s SP2/3's, and those have always been my benchmarks for great speakers. My expectation/hope is that these SP3/1R2's will have a similar presentation, but in a more appropriately sized package for my 8" x 12" room. Amplification will be a 1959 Fisher X-100 (EL84's).
STOKED!
beatcomber
AK Member
Just got the FedEx tracking info... due for delivery on Friday next week. 
Once they're received, I'll start a new thread with pics and my impressions.
Once they're received, I'll start a new thread with pics and my impressions.
sp58
Active Member
Walked in a Hifi-Studio in January 1984, Jazz was playing from a Thorens TD 160MKII, Nytech CA252 ampli and Spendor SA1 Speakers.
Savings book was canceled and the money brought to the shop for the complete setup as above.
After 22 years of wonderful music listening i want new speakers, got the half of the new price for my SA1 in the "auction"
So the scandinavian Dali floorstands move in - but moved out after 1 year - boomie bass and cool highs are not my thing !
Searching in GB for speakers and i found..
Spendor Preludes used in very good condition, recapped them and the story goes on..
Think i am officialy married with this brand.
Savings book was canceled and the money brought to the shop for the complete setup as above.
After 22 years of wonderful music listening i want new speakers, got the half of the new price for my SA1 in the "auction"
So the scandinavian Dali floorstands move in - but moved out after 1 year - boomie bass and cool highs are not my thing !
Searching in GB for speakers and i found..
Spendor Preludes used in very good condition, recapped them and the story goes on..
Think i am officialy married with this brand.
beatcomber
AK Member
Anybody power SP1's with an MC2105 or another McIntosh SS amp?
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Hello Spendor owners,
I recently made an excellent but relatively cheap upgrade to my SP2/3R2s.
I was checking whether any of my driver bolts have loosened over the last 18 months and noticed the mount bolts (alloy steel) that secure the tweeter to the baffle are within the tweeter motor's magnetic field. Being curious as to how this might affect performance, I decided to experiment with some stainless steel versions. Luckily, the local hardware store had exact replacements in stainless. I wanted to ensure all bolts were tightened to the same torque, so picked up this adjustable torque driver:
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-0507471...5074710001&dpPl=1&dpID=31MhgCN-U3L&ref=plSrch
I experimented with different torque values for the tweeter and settled at 3.5 in-lbs. I also experimented with midbass driver torque - those were loosened, then tightened in increments for a final torque of 5 in-lbs.
The improvement of this inexpensive mod is not at all subtle! If you're familiar with the excellent note decay that properly-positioned Vandersteens achieve with their time and phase aligned designs, then you'll have a good idea of the difference this makes. While my Spendors were completely enjoyable in factory form, they are now on a whole other level. They sound as though a Vandy 1Ci and SP2 had a love child. I've had 1Cis in this system and even their decay doesn't match what I'm hearing now. It's like the instruments decay for whole seconds longer than before. Funny - one song that makes this most apparent is The Devil Went Down to Georgia by the Charlie Daniels Band.
What ultimately resulted in this amazing improvement was replacing the four tweeter to baffle bolts with stainless steel(the four Torx bolts that attach the tweeter bezel to the actual driver remained untouched).
As for the midbass drivers, they were pretty loose. I'm not sure if they came this way from the dealer or simply the result of 18 months of use. I tried various torque amounts, but found that 5 in-lbs resulted in the best balance between bass definition and midrange clarity. Too much torque made them a little boomy and seemed to reduce output somewhere around the 2 or 3kHz range. Too little torque and bass output is drastically reduced. Note that I tightened all bolts in a star pattern, and repeated this until the torque stabilized (that is when repeating the torque pattern finally ceases to cause any movement in the bolts). I played some 60 to 100 Hz bass heavy tracks for a few hours then rechecked the torque - again until stabilized.
If you have Spendors with the wide-surround Seas tweeter, I think this is a worthwhile experiment, but try it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any undesired results, damaged speakers, or voided warranty.
AFAIC, I would've gladly paid hundred$$$ for this improvement, it took them to the next level.
Cheers!
I recently made an excellent but relatively cheap upgrade to my SP2/3R2s.
I was checking whether any of my driver bolts have loosened over the last 18 months and noticed the mount bolts (alloy steel) that secure the tweeter to the baffle are within the tweeter motor's magnetic field. Being curious as to how this might affect performance, I decided to experiment with some stainless steel versions. Luckily, the local hardware store had exact replacements in stainless. I wanted to ensure all bolts were tightened to the same torque, so picked up this adjustable torque driver:
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-0507471...5074710001&dpPl=1&dpID=31MhgCN-U3L&ref=plSrch
I experimented with different torque values for the tweeter and settled at 3.5 in-lbs. I also experimented with midbass driver torque - those were loosened, then tightened in increments for a final torque of 5 in-lbs.
The improvement of this inexpensive mod is not at all subtle! If you're familiar with the excellent note decay that properly-positioned Vandersteens achieve with their time and phase aligned designs, then you'll have a good idea of the difference this makes. While my Spendors were completely enjoyable in factory form, they are now on a whole other level. They sound as though a Vandy 1Ci and SP2 had a love child. I've had 1Cis in this system and even their decay doesn't match what I'm hearing now. It's like the instruments decay for whole seconds longer than before. Funny - one song that makes this most apparent is The Devil Went Down to Georgia by the Charlie Daniels Band.
What ultimately resulted in this amazing improvement was replacing the four tweeter to baffle bolts with stainless steel(the four Torx bolts that attach the tweeter bezel to the actual driver remained untouched).
As for the midbass drivers, they were pretty loose. I'm not sure if they came this way from the dealer or simply the result of 18 months of use. I tried various torque amounts, but found that 5 in-lbs resulted in the best balance between bass definition and midrange clarity. Too much torque made them a little boomy and seemed to reduce output somewhere around the 2 or 3kHz range. Too little torque and bass output is drastically reduced. Note that I tightened all bolts in a star pattern, and repeated this until the torque stabilized (that is when repeating the torque pattern finally ceases to cause any movement in the bolts). I played some 60 to 100 Hz bass heavy tracks for a few hours then rechecked the torque - again until stabilized.
If you have Spendors with the wide-surround Seas tweeter, I think this is a worthwhile experiment, but try it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any undesired results, damaged speakers, or voided warranty.
AFAIC, I would've gladly paid hundred$$$ for this improvement, it took them to the next level.
Cheers!
beatcomber
AK Member
As many of you know, I’ve either had a Fisher 400 or, more recently, a Fisher X-100 (14wpc) in my main system for a number of years, and my main speakers are the Spendor SP3/1R2’s that I had shipped from England a few months ago.
I recently moved my hifi from an 8’ x 12’ room downstairs to a larger bedroom upstairs, and was dismayed to find that my system now sounded thin and anemic, with light/flabby bass and lean mids. I thought that these nice speakers were too small for the space or something, and it was very upsetting.
On a whim, I swapped in my Rega Brio-R, 50 watts of solid state power, and was stunned by how spectacular it sounded with the Spendors... it was punchy and composed, with real bass extension, and wonderful tonal accuracy. Now, I always liked the Rega, but in my smaller room it sometimes sounded too "thick." In the new room, it sounds absolutely gorgeous. Maybe there is something to pairing British amps with British speakers.
I was immediately forced to throw out all of my preconceptions about tubes vs. solid state. It's clear to me now that the Fisher may have been fine with the Spendors in a tiny room, where it was able to get some reinforcement from the room itself, but in a more open space it quickly ran out of gas.
Switching to solid state also relieved the anxiety of caring for tubes, and it certainly is more convenient! Sure, I'll miss the euphoric presentation of tubes, but the Rega Brio-R brings its own thing to the party, so I don't feel like it's a major compromise.
And I still have the Fisher X-100, and plan to set it up with my Wharfedale Dentons in a smaller room. Win-win!
I recently moved my hifi from an 8’ x 12’ room downstairs to a larger bedroom upstairs, and was dismayed to find that my system now sounded thin and anemic, with light/flabby bass and lean mids. I thought that these nice speakers were too small for the space or something, and it was very upsetting.
On a whim, I swapped in my Rega Brio-R, 50 watts of solid state power, and was stunned by how spectacular it sounded with the Spendors... it was punchy and composed, with real bass extension, and wonderful tonal accuracy. Now, I always liked the Rega, but in my smaller room it sometimes sounded too "thick." In the new room, it sounds absolutely gorgeous. Maybe there is something to pairing British amps with British speakers.
I was immediately forced to throw out all of my preconceptions about tubes vs. solid state. It's clear to me now that the Fisher may have been fine with the Spendors in a tiny room, where it was able to get some reinforcement from the room itself, but in a more open space it quickly ran out of gas.
Switching to solid state also relieved the anxiety of caring for tubes, and it certainly is more convenient! Sure, I'll miss the euphoric presentation of tubes, but the Rega Brio-R brings its own thing to the party, so I don't feel like it's a major compromise.
And I still have the Fisher X-100, and plan to set it up with my Wharfedale Dentons in a smaller room. Win-win!
Multimode
Active Member
Not tried, but replacing the expertly-designed original crossover at the whim of a gadget marketeer would almost certainly be a downgrade in terms of both sound quality and your pocket.
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Linehand
Active Member
I agree.
Has anyone replaced/upgraded crossover capacitors?
Another question, my speakers are missing the foam port plug that was added to BC-1 and BC-2 to tighten bass. Anyone know how big that foam port plug is? What depth?
I'm listening to BC-2's through a Fisher 800c
Thanks
Paul
Multimode
Active Member
My BC1s have the original capacitors and I can't detect any deterioration so haven't considered changing them. They aren't electrolytics, otherwise they would no doubt be very overdue for change.
Regarding the port, again I can only speak for the BC1. I bought mine in c.1980 and not long after that I fitted a foam-lined port tube sold by Spendor. This most definitely tightened the base.
The original hole in the baffle was 2" diameter, and it was lined with a 1/4" thick open cell foam. Spendor's kit consisted of a 3" outside diameter hard-card tube of 5" length with a thicker (3/8" I think) foam insert.
A plastic port tube suitable for the BC1, and almost certainly the BC2, can be found online in the UK for under £10. I don't know if they are available in the US.
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Linehand
Active Member
Thank you Multimode, thats exactly what I was after.
I've been experimenting a bit. I did replace the original film caps with new vishay. The originals were marked for specific position in case they have to go back and all tested within 2% of spec (all erred to the high side of spec). I believe they were made by Philips.
Also, I lined the inside baffle around the port to just under the woofer with 3/8" sound absorber.
I've been playing with different length cardboard port tubes.
So if I understand Multimode, before adding a port tube the stock diameter was increased to 3"?
I'll have to check some UK sites thanks for the tip
I've been experimenting a bit. I did replace the original film caps with new vishay. The originals were marked for specific position in case they have to go back and all tested within 2% of spec (all erred to the high side of spec). I believe they were made by Philips.
Also, I lined the inside baffle around the port to just under the woofer with 3/8" sound absorber.
I've been playing with different length cardboard port tubes.
So if I understand Multimode, before adding a port tube the stock diameter was increased to 3"?
I'll have to check some UK sites thanks for the tip
Linehand
Active Member
Not sure if you meant mine?
Heres mine (mine didn't have foam in port):
Playing with ports...
Here's what I was after (foam in port):
On another note VINTAGEO have you got any interest in an RX-1010V?
Multimode
Active Member
It's been a very long while and I'm now not sure if I opened the hole from 2" to 3" or if it was already at that diameter. Opening it would have involved gluing or wedging a piece of ply in the hole so as to allow use of a hole saw, preferably with the baffle removed from the cabinet and clamped flat onto a block of wood so as to prevent surface damage when the hole saw breaks through.
Aftermarket port tubes shouldn't be hard to find in the US as they seem a popular item. A quick browse finds them in the UK at Falcon Acoustics, with the nearest size being 71 mm outside diameter and extendible from 128 to 245 mm: https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/c...ss-reflex-port-tube-standard-reflex-66mm.html.
The plastic port tube I mentioned earlier was on a UK site that I stumbled across a couple of years ago but can't now find. They offered a wide range of sizes, including one of 2" diameter and 5" fixed length specifically for the BC1 (and BC2?).
Spendors love tube amps with grunt. 50+ watts with KT88s or 120s and you'll be back in the glass game.
