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1967 Executive 972 opinions? Updates on restoration.

Don't remind me. I still get nightmares of those stairs.

grind. The scaffolding isn't because of the consoles. Too many non ambulatory old fat patients on 2nd floor when I was working EMS.
 
grindfix said:
Is it THAT heavy? Can 2 people load it in the minivan?
Click to expand...

You moving this Executive 972 with 2 strong men, grindfix. That's an amazing feat of magic. Nothing but high respect for your upper body strength on moving that. And this is coming from someone with Mixed type Cerebral Palsy and Spina Bifida, and someone who was part of the 2 strong man lift on moving his Custom Electra into the station wagon on it's side locked down, out, upright, up the steps into the house. This is a very heavy console, makes my 1966 Custom Electra seem like a portable by comparison. Glad you scored that Executive, and in your living room and once restored, and you will enjoy the heck out of it.
 
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That is a great looking unit! Glad to see you got it there without any drama :)

Our Statesman has the RC-70 cassette deck versus a reel-to-reel which at the time was probably considered pretty fancy new tech, and given the scarcity of the RC-70 I guess it has its own "nifty" factor... but to be honest, I really would have liked a reel-to-reel better as they look so cool housed in a console.

Plus when my grandfather passed, I inherited all his electronics since no one else was interested, and played many years of music on his Ampex from about 10 years old on. So reel-to-reels have a special nostalgia for me.

Although my family almost certainly hopes not :rolleyes: I hope I run across a similar configuration Fisher in reasonable driving distance one day.
 
Very Nice score Dimitri! That AMPEX is a very good Tape Deck. Although I wish they had come out with the GLASS Heads instead of AKAI. But there are places that will lap heads or replace them still out there. But it's very $$$$$$$$$$.
 
Today I powered it up on DBT to verify operation before I pull receiver out on the bench.
Both channels produce sound. Not good sound but react to tone controls and all buttons. All need good cleaning of course.

FM stereo is operational but has a lot of hum. Increasingly at the highest signal point of the station tuning
AM tunes on local stations. No hum
Phono works in R channel but L channel has hum when I touch the tonearm. I think dirty oxidized mute switch, bad cartridge or connection or broken tonearm wiring somewhere.
RTR plays but R channel is weaker. Possibly recorded that way on the tape it came with. I don't know.

I plan to start with refreshing all electrolytics and was wondering if I should up values. I haven't found capacitor tolerance specs in the manual but I think back then, caps were -20/+50%.
If that is correct I'm thinking to up values 40% and use 10-20% parts. For Audio output filters I'm assuming it more beneficial to go much higher, like double or even triple to filter better and tighten up the bass. Does my plan sound valid?

I'd like a suggestion on rectifiers options.

Thanks!
 
If it's separate diodes, 1n5404's do nicely in the 31-R for the B+. It's very much like the 59T/59A combo just stuffed into one chassis. If it's a bridge, use what's used in the 400-400c-800c for the B+. 4A is plenty enough, tho a bit of overkill. For the Heaters either a 2A bridge or 4 1n4004 in a full wave configuration should be fine.

Stay with original cap values, but up the voltages by 1 step. ie: 50v to 63v, 16V to 25V or 35V. Upping capacitance in these doesn't do anything but make your wallet squeal a bit more. With the exception of C63 & C64. Bump them up to 2200uf 63V (originals are 35v to 50V) any more than that and diminishing returns.

Usually it's the FM section that's quiet and AM that has noise, hash, etc. at one end or the other. It could be an artifact of the DBT(not enough B+ for the front end) or an alignment issue, or any number of things. Eliminate all the RFI in the area (switching supplies, Florescent lamps, etc.). A transistor might be going bad too.

Sounds like a lost ground on the phono circuit. Start at the tonearm/headshell. DUAL 10xx series are notorious for that. DeOxit and an eraser will clean the contacts (don't forget those in the carrier for the headshell).

Clean the heads, then de-magnitize them. Then play again. If no joy, Swap the outputs on the R2R and replay. If it's in the tapedeck, the lack of sound will swap sides.
 
Larry, thanks for reply. B+ uses bridge that is crimped to the chassis. I could use tabletop bridge mounted through hole in the chassis.
I do not see tubes in this unit. They are suppose to be inside tuner gang but I don't see the cover to be easy openable. Schematic shows them and heaters are AC powered.
Tuner / preamp section uses 4 diodes in bridge pattern. They are SID50894-3. Are those that you recommend 1n5404's as replacements?

1.JPG

I couldn't find speaker crossover schematic and opened one speaker cover. 4 capacitors, 2 resistors and 2 inductors. I got capacitor values. Those are Non-Polar Electrolytic, right?
Film caps would probably be better, right? Plenty of space there.
Also, thinking about adding bucking transformer to knock it all down to 117v and add a power relay to unload the power switch.
 
The tubes are 3- 6CW4. Look like Silver TO-1 type transistors, but they are classisifed as tubes. They are inside the box for the Front End.

ScreenHunter 237.jpg

You can use a 4A table top rectifier for both rectifiers. Or use 4 1n5404's per and build your own.

Yeah. Non-polar Lytics. Part's Express. Films in those sizes are Huge and again, your wallet will squeal like a stuck pig.

No real need for a bucking transformer here. It's designed for 105-120V and a couple over isn't going to hurt it. Transistor units tend to be less sensitive to voltage fluctuations. But by all means if it makes you more comfortable go ahead and put a buck transformer in line. The power switches in the early Fisher Solid State units don't have that much inrush surge on startup. Max current on the 31-R is 140W. Minimum is 38W. With the contacts rated for at least 3A, 1.19A is basically loafing along on them. Again not really necessary but if it males you more comfortable......... My Hybrids(49t/49A and 59T/59A combos) draw little more than the 31-R and I haven't had a switch failure yet with no mods. The 59A/T (65 Futura) I've had for 11 years now.
 
I looked up those tiny tubes and they are really miniatures!
I think we've been talking about those tabletops before. Ones that were recommended for Fisher receivers were 8A units. Rectron makes 6A version but 4A is not a tabletop and all I've seen, have legs in a row. That won't work. I think I'll use 6A bridge for B+ and 4x diodes for tuner / preamp PS.
I'll take your recommendation against bucker and relay. I think even if switch fails down the road, it will still be able to power the relay coil, so this mod can still work if needed.
 
The Filter caps. Basically every Lytic and old dogturd cap except for the ceramics. There is a 2n2925 IIRC(I'm not looking at the schematic) in the muting section on the tuner. It's connected to a terminal strip near the back (back is facing you) just to the left of center. If the muting is flaky, replace it. Mouser carries 2n2925's..

You must dismount, clean and regrease (heatsink grease) all 8 of the output transistors. Don't mix them up.
 
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DTG110B. I think Germanium. I don't see any bias pots there or removed. Schematic does not shows pots either. My unit is serial #14xxx something
 
Also, no dog turds either. looks like all interstage couplings are Eurofol type looking polystyrene caps.
 
larryderouin said:
The Filter caps. Basically every Lytic and old dogturd cap except for the ceramics. There is a 2n2925 IIRC(I'm not looking at the schematic) in the muting section on the tuner. It's connected to a terminal strip near the back (back is facing you) just to the left of center. If the muting is flaky, replace it. Mouser carries 2n2925's..

You must dismount, clean and regrease (heatsink grease) all 8 of the output transistors. Don't mix them up.
Click to expand...
4 outputs. 2 per channel
 
Disregard the BIAS POTS. I got hung up on this having a 690A or 59A (switched threads and didn't shift gears internally!). It doesn't have them.

And yes 4 output's total. All DTG110B's
 
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