• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

KEF owners thread

Hi bimasta. Take heart on at least 2 fronts. 1.. the visoniks according to somebody felt they were worth stealing...sound good!! 2 .. If the person you mentioned did take them maybe the speakers will overdrive his/her amp and... sweet karma. In fairness to your loss you never had that friend anyway and you could have gotten burned worse later on ?? For the love of music Ledbailey
 
I have the KEF 105.. and seem to blow the fuse on the mid tweeter when I turn up volume 1/2 way (or more)..

New to these.. is this something that needs serviced, etc. to help prevent in the future?
 
I have the KEF 105.. and seem to blow the fuse on the mid tweeter when I turn up volume 1/2 way (or more)..

New to these.. is this something that needs serviced, etc. to help prevent in the future?
What amp are you using to drive them? I'd guess that your amp is clipping. From the web:
Clipping is a form of waveform distortion that occurs when an amplifier is overdriven and attempts to deliver an output voltage or current beyond its maximum capability. Driving an amplifier into clipping may cause it to output power in excess of its power rating.
And:
Facts about clipping: Any clipped signal can potentially damage a speaker. It does not matter whether the mixer, amplifier, or any other piece of audio equipment clips the signal in the system. Damage can occur even when the amplifier is not at full output.

Any of the larger, vintage KEF's need a high power, high current amp to sound/perform at their best. Even though the specs state amp requirements at 40-200 watts, for many, 200 is just the starting point. I drive my 104/2's with a B&K EX 4420 (200W into ohms & 350W into 4 ohms).
 
From my experience, these vintage KEFs perform better with ss amps. However, I am not familiar with your tube amps. As rickb119 said, they do require a lot of power/current to perform their best.
 
Thanks Rick.. I’m running them with a vintage pair of Allen organ 75 tube mono blocks.
From what little I've read, those sound like very nice amps. However, I'm still betting that clipping is the issue. Any way you could borrow a beefy SS amp?
 
I have the KEF 105.. and seem to blow the fuse on the mid tweeter when I turn up volume 1/2 way (or more)..

New to these.. is this something that needs serviced, etc. to help prevent in the future?
As been mentioned those speakers were designed to be fed with high wattage solid state power amps. But that being said, two 75 watt tube amps should feed them just fine. I'm not familiar with the characteristics of those amps as I've heard them, but never really messed around with them. It's very possible that they are clipping at over half on the volume knob. This could be due to the design of the amp, or possibly your tubes are on the way out. As was mentioned if you can get a hold of another amp, you could see if it is the amp or the speakers that are causing the problem.

You're going to have to diagnose where the fault is in order to find a solution.
 
Thanks Rick.. I’m running them with a vintage pair of Allen organ 75 tube mono blocks.

BigRedHusker - I've been living with a pair of the KEF 105 (Mk. 1) since 1980 and they do require a lot of power and current to make them sing. Some suggestions for diagnosing the problem with blowing the fuse in the MF (mid-frequencies).

While I'm not familiar with the Allen Organ 75 tube amps, have you tried swapping them between the speakers to see if the problem moves to the other speaker? If not, what is your source/pre-amp driving the amps and can you switch that around to see if that is an issue? Some thoughts are weak driver tube(s) in the amp or something going on prior to the amp(s).

The KEF 105's are not efficient speakers - I think they were 86 dB / 1 Watt meaning they would hit symphonic concert hall levels with 200W input. What sort of music are you trying to listen to?

As others have mentioned I've run my KEF 105's on amps from Dynaco, Audio Research (single and then bridged/mono-blocks), VSP Labs and now a Class D Audio 220W/channel into 8 ohms - 440W/channel into 4 ohms meaning the amp has 5-10 amps of current to drive the speaker loads. Not only wattage but they do like a lot of current.
 
Thought to share as I know you KEF owners appreciate a journey.

Back in late 2015 my mom passed and I had a little "to remember her by." She was always my supporter when I was a kid who loved music, providing me with whatever stereo I "spec'd out" from catalogs. I chose a pair of KEF R500's, getting a floor demo pair. Over the next year I added the matching R200c center, R100 surrounds, and later, R50 Atmos-enabled speakers. An SVS SB2000 filled in the bottom end. What I learned too late was that the room was acoustically horrible, my wife (a huge movie watcher) hated surround sound almost as much as subwoofers.

Meanwhile I decided to build a nice 2-ch office system, and picked up a used pair f LS50's in frosted black/blue driver. Eventually I added an NAD M10 and twin Kube 10b subs. The office is a much smaller, acoustically better space. a nice turntable and a Schiit Mani phono stage, the office was great. A few months back a friend offered me a pair of new LS50 Meta (passive) for $1k. I bit. Now where to put the original LS50's? Guest bedroom. A friend got me a Carver M-1.5t amp for $100, and I had an M&K sub that had been totally reworked. Wow. Turns out this room is, incredibly, the acoustically best room in the house! The LS50's sound so good!

My dealer posted on Facebook that they got in 3 pairs of the obsoleted color (v1?) Reference 1's, plus a couple pairs of 3's and 5's. The Reference 1's offered at $5k for $8k speakers, B-stock, That got me thinking, why should I keep this living room R series set if no one listens to it and it doesn't sound great in the room any how? Sold everything but the NAD T758v3 receiver. Bought a used passive soundbar KEF HTF8003 for $201.50 on eBay, It's a long, 3-channel soundbar. My dealer ordered me a pair of T101 wall mount speakers, and I borrowed a Kube 10b sub from the office. Now I got surround sound for the few concert DVD's or football games a year that I watch.

Last night I picked a pair of Reference 1's that I had put a deposit on last week. With all I sold and bought in the past couple weeks, my out-of-pocket for the $8K speakers discounted to $5k...was $1141. When I got them out of the car, I noticed something weird. The label didn't read "Satin Walnut", it said "Silver Walnut." OMG, these are the new design. It's more than just color change to the woofer, they also changed the aluminum front baffle color and incorporated the trim ring for the woofer right into the machining of the plate. These things blow my mind.
Ref_Silver-Walnut.jpg
 
Thought to share as I know you KEF owners appreciate a journey.

Back in late 2015 my mom passed and I had a little "to remember her by." She was always my supporter when I was a kid who loved music, providing me with whatever stereo I "spec'd out" from catalogs. I chose a pair of KEF R500's, getting a floor demo pair. Over the next year I added the matching R200c center, R100 surrounds, and later, R50 Atmos-enabled speakers. An SVS SB2000 filled in the bottom end. What I learned too late was that the room was acoustically horrible, my wife (a huge movie watcher) hated surround sound almost as much as subwoofers.

Meanwhile I decided to build a nice 2-ch office system, and picked up a used pair f LS50's in frosted black/blue driver. Eventually I added an NAD M10 and twin Kube 10b subs. The office is a much smaller, acoustically better space. a nice turntable and a Schiit Mani phono stage, the office was great. A few months back a friend offered me a pair of new LS50 Meta (passive) for $1k. I bit. Now where to put the original LS50's? Guest bedroom. A friend got me a Carver M-1.5t amp for $100, and I had an M&K sub that had been totally reworked. Wow. Turns out this room is, incredibly, the acoustically best room in the house! The LS50's sound so good!

My dealer posted on Facebook that they got in 3 pairs of the obsoleted color (v1?) Reference 1's, plus a couple pairs of 3's and 5's. The Reference 1's offered at $5k for $8k speakers, B-stock, That got me thinking, why should I keep this living room R series set if no one listens to it and it doesn't sound great in the room any how? Sold everything but the NAD T758v3 receiver. Bought a used passive soundbar KEF HTF8003 for $201.50 on eBay, It's a long, 3-channel soundbar. My dealer ordered me a pair of T101 wall mount speakers, and I borrowed a Kube 10b sub from the office. Now I got surround sound for the few concert DVD's or football games a year that I watch.

Last night I picked a pair of Reference 1's that I had put a deposit on last week. With all I sold and bought in the past couple weeks, my out-of-pocket for the $8K speakers discounted to $5k...was $1141. When I got them out of the car, I noticed something weird. The label didn't read "Satin Walnut", it said "Silver Walnut." OMG, these are the new design. It's more than just color change to the woofer, they also changed the aluminum front baffle color and incorporated the trim ring for the woofer right into the machining of the plate. These things blow my mind.
View attachment 2146970


Congratulations, they must sound amazing my Q150s blow my mind for their size.
 
Congratulations, you made out quite well on those Reference 1s. How do they sound compared to the LS50s?
 
Congratulations, you made out quite well on those Reference 1s. How do they sound compared to the LS50s?

This comparison was the most surprising thing to me. I'd had the original LS50's for 3 years, and still have the Meta that I bought about 3 months ago.

The LS50 Meta in my office are running on the NAD Masters M10 all-in-one box. With 100w/ch it's pretty good. The Carver amp upstairs in the guest bedroom drove the originals in a completely different, better way. Bass output was transformed. I thought long and hard about making the switch because to get them involved some tough decisions about other gear I loved.

In the end, I considered amount of use. Listening upstairs is 90% of my music time, about 2 hours a night. These Reference 1's absolutely smash the performance of the LS50's in every possible measure. The most incredible big, yet well-defined soundstage, every vocal and instrument like I am hearing it for the first time. It's that good.
 
Last edited:
Evening folks, I've recently picked up yet another pair of 104/2, and also a pair of Reference Model Ones,

hThe model ones don't come with the UniQ units, now I know that sourcing a pair of B160 SP1345 and T25 uniq combo is a quite a difficult task, however I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced with the B160 (SP1317) and T25 combo from the Reference 100 centre speaker.

I understand that the mounting is slightly different on these (3 screws on the matching model and 4 on the Reference 100 model) however this seems like it would be be easy enough modification to complete. (I also understand the woofer on the SP1317 is a shielded woofer but that shouldn't make too much of a difference). The reason why I'm thinking of doing this is due to the fact that the Reference 100 center channels are fairly common and one of the easiest ways of obtaining some T25 tweeters without spending crazy money.

I really would appreciate any advice on this as I'd ideally like to get them up and running as apposed go pulling for parts etc.

Also below I've provided images showing the mounting plate on the speaker itself aswell as the SP1317 driver)

Appreciate any advise, I might also make a thread if I gain any traction
20210322_175311.jpg
. s-l300 (1).jpg
 
image.jpeg The attached pic are not my speakers but someone changed the binding posts to 5 way from the original horrible spring clips which mine have. If anyone has done this, is this difficult and is it dangerously near the crossover? Also if it is fairly easy, can someone recommend where I can purchase the better posts as pictured. I would prefer the ones on the left. I am concerned about doing this because my nickname used to be "Destructo" lol!
 
Without showing a picture of what your speakers' connectors look like currently, it's kind of hard to answer this. Also, what's your skill level regarding doing work like this? With most speakers, the binding posts are mounted directly to the crossover. It could be as simple as removing a screw or nut to release the wire and the old clip, then screwing in a new one, or as complicated as having to disassemble the crossover to get to the connectors, desolder them, remove additional screws and/or nuts, then reverse the process with the new posts.
 
Kef Reference 101 binding post. I am looking for someone's input who knows this speaker and has done this.
 
- I have KEF Reference 107 (not 107/2) . I have replaced the T33s (never happy with them even after re-ferrofluiding them, just seem rolled-off to me noticably more than any other speakers I have or had; R105, Tannoy DMT12, Home-made LS3-5As lined with lead!, JBL LSR705P, ESL63, .... ) with MidWestSpeaker customised 4 Ohm jobbies on a 3D-printed new faceplate, and Willy's H-Fi 4 Ohm L-Pad as the bare tweeters were too loud.
- Re-capping x-over with the Falcon set.
- Re-foamed the woofers a while ago. When I got them you could shine a torch thru to the bottom of the cabinet !

* Does anybody here have an ACCURATE schematic of the crossovers ? There seem to be several contrasting versions floating around on the interweb...
* Does anybody have instructions or specs for adjusting the MID and HI trim-pots inside the KUBE 107 ?
 
Hi all :) new KEF owner here. Thanks to AK member- rickb119 for pointing me here. I acquired a pair of 103/3 speakers with stands in pretty good shape except for the bottom LF driver needing a new donut, couple little dings in the cabinets.... and of course the PO could not find the Kube! While scouring the web for a replacement Kube , I went ahead and ordered the replacement foam seal and some ferrofluid to refresh the tweeters, and completed some TLC on the cabinets. These are cleaning up pretty nice, but the not having the Kube is bumming me out as I've read that the 103/3's really do need it to sound good.
I've done some research and saw where some AK'ers like Nerdorama? have had success using digital eq's after finding the right frequency settings of what the original Kube was contouring.
I am pretty much straight analog here, so I was wondering if it's possible to achieve satisfactory results with an analog eq to bring these 103's to life? I also have an older 12" Velodyne sub I was thinking about running the KEF's off that and using the built in crossover, but it looks like the Kube is doing much more than just bass boost as there are deep cuts in the mid range as well.
Am I wasting time trying to resource an original used Kube for these?
Thanks :beerchug:
 
Thank you @nerdorama - I thought I had read somewhere you were experimenting with this. I assume you’re just using the Kube now?
I will keep an eye out for one, but it hasn’t been looking good on finding one haha.
I guess the next question would be...is all the hassle worth it in the end with these 103/3’s and their sound quality? I’ve never heard them in person, but have heard the 104/2 quite a bit.
I will say, they are an attractive speaker and the cabinets are very well built.
 
Back
Top Bottom