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KEF owners thread

The Calindas do not really need stands. They were designed to be floor standers with small feet that raise them about 1 to 2 inches off the floor. Their design puts the optimum listening position at ear level when seated at a distance of about 6 feet. For the best SQ, they should be placed no closer than 3 feet from side walls and about 1.5 feet from the wall behind them.
 
First post on this KEF page, however I am a long time user of their KAR series speakers and still have managed to hold a decent stash of the 160Q's GT 200 and 100 series, several 200B and 250B, 160M and 110M, and multiple 19 and 25 tweeters. From the first system I put in my car I was amazed at the sound in such a difficult surrounding sonically, and sill have them in both of my cars even though they are speakers from the 80's. I have made my own cabinets and used some of those speakers to build my own large bookshelf speakers with some success, but now am wading in to the water on the home reference line. I currently have Pioneer HPM 100's and 60's, Klipsch Heresy's and JBL 100's, several of those will be passed down to my children. I have long desired the 104/2 and have been amazed at hearing them in the past, but also enjoyed the 104ab. My concern with the 104/2's is having enough WPC in amplification needs. I have a Pioneer SX780 receiver which I know is not going to be sufficient, I also have a Pioneer SA-8800II along with a Denon, Onkyo and Pioneer AV receivers which I know wont work. Thoughts and suggestions are always welcome. Very nice to be among those who enjoy KEF
 
I pulled the Calindas out into the larger living room, now sharing space with the 105.1s. I knew beforehand that placing the Calidas as I did within a smaller area was not going to be ideal but they do need to breathe as it were. As to be expected they sound better, more balanced overall, but will do a recap given their age.

I did raise them a slight amount to decouple them, always tend to get too much bass reinforcement. Interesting that some literature from Kef mentions that it might be necessary to toe them in a certain amount depending on where they are in a room etc.

Going to give them a good listen.




DSCN6506.jpg IMG_5243.jpg
 
Sptsmed78 - might want to look into some of the commercial pro market amplifiers. With the power hungry 105.1s I settled on a BGW GTB power amplifier from the late 1980's era, rated at a conservative 300 W / Ch. into 8 ohms. There are others but in the case of BGW pre 1990's are the better sounding models. If not already modified they tend to have 1/4" input jacks or XLR but there are cables one can buy or modify if using standard RCAs.


Some of the Crown and Peavey models are good as well and in consumer amplifiers there is Hafler's DH 500, Parasound, Soundstream DA 1, Bryston 4B and the Sonics branded versions as well. There are of course others but if you are on a budget like I am one can find some of these or similar used for good prices.
 
The setup of the Calindas looks better in the larger room. Your chair appears to be fairly close to the speakers, so a little toe-in is probably beneficial.
 
Thank you for the suggestions, I do have some experience with soundstream car amplifiers, actually have a stash of probably 10-12 of the reference line including a Picasso or two, a couple of other silver case references and multiple light blue case ones, they were amazing amps. Sadly I think my stereo addiction has turned me into a hoarder LOL, I also have several old Boston Acoustic amps, Phoenix Gold amps, PPI Art series amps, Pioneer Premier, a couple of Zuki Eleets, and I am sure a few other oddities here and there. I am going to look into the Soundstream DA 1 and 2. I have a few very old Phase Linear 400's that I have thought of undertaking, just have to get up the courage to open them up and give them a go.


Sptsmed78 - might want to look into some of the commercial pro market amplifiers. With the power hungry 105.1s I settled on a BGW GTB power amplifier from the late 1980's era, rated at a conservative 300 W / Ch. into 8 ohms. There are others but in the case of BGW pre 1990's are the better sounding models. If not already modified they tend to have 1/4" input jacks or XLR but there are cables one can buy or modify if using standard RCAs.


Some of the Crown and Peavey models are good as well and in consumer amplifiers there is Hafler's DH 500, Parasound, Soundstream DA 1, Bryston 4B and the Sonics branded versions as well. There are of course others but if you are on a budget like I am one can find some of these or similar used for good prices.
 
I picked up these transmission lines for a good price over the weekend. Not sure what design they are, any ideas?
Also looking fo amp recommendations, could someone tell me which forum I should ask in?
 

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Hi, I'm newbie on here with a set of 104/2s that I have recapped (Falcon kit) and done the woofer donuts etc a couple of years back.
Now the midrange drivers have started delaminating at the dustcap. Its ugly. Help!
Repair - how?
Or replace - from where?
Or do I just butcher them with a pair of B110s screwed on?
I am in New Zealand, so probably no chance of finding a solution here.
Thanks in advance...
 

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Looks like you just need some glue. May not look favtory fresh but should be ok. Find some glue with a fairly short set time so you can get it to hold.
John
 
Hi, I'm newbie on here with a set of 104/2s that I have recapped (Falcon kit) and done the woofer donuts etc a couple of years back.
Now the midrange drivers have started delaminating at the dustcap. Its ugly. Help!
Repair - how?
Or replace - from where?
Or do I just butcher them with a pair of B110s screwed on?
I am in New Zealand, so probably no chance of finding a solution here.
Thanks in advance...

The dust caps can be replaced. There are several on-line vendors. Simply Speakers, Parts Express, etc.

May not be 100% the same as factory dimensions, but better than trying to source replacement midrange pods. Those drivers are glued in and are nearly impossible to remove.
 
Hi, I'm newbie on here with a set of 104/2s that I have recapped (Falcon kit) and done the woofer donuts etc a couple of years back.
Now the midrange drivers have started delaminating at the dustcap. Its ugly. Help!
Repair - how?
Or replace - from where?
Or do I just butcher them with a pair of B110s screwed on?
I am in New Zealand, so probably no chance of finding a solution here.
Thanks in advance...

I don't know what you may be able to get in New Zealand but dust caps for speakers are fairly common. As others have mentioned, you just need to right glue to adhere to the Bextrene cone, and should probably get new dust caps if you can.
 
I don't know if any of you have ever had the opportunity to visit the KEF USA headquarters in Marlboro Township NJ, but I managed to get there this past Friday night for an invitation-only event. It was a presentation by Ricky Riccardi about his Grammy-winning work on documenting Louis Armstrong's Big Band era work from 1946 to 1966. I got to hob-knob with David Kroll, the KEF VP of Sales, Jack Sharkey, Ben Hagens and Stephanie Bender, plus several manufacturers' reps and some media people. Got to listen to the New Blade 1 Meta in both the KEF Music Lounge and in their tremendous KEF Music & Movie Theatre.
 

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WOW! Nice going. I wish I could have been there! Lucky You!:)

If you're a member of the KEF Enthusiasts group or KEF Owners group on Facebook, you could see a LOT more photos that my friend from Delaware took. That's just a couple with me in them.
 
So, wondering what your collective opinion might be - I have a set of Reference 103.3's, generally they sound good, but I had to replace the donuts on the interior B160 woofer since they turned to dust. Everything went smoothly and they're glued on straight & solid without pulling the coil out of alignment, great, no wires stuck in the framing, seemingly all mechanical issues are fixed. But for some reason it still sounds like a wet fart? Like higher bass frequencies will decay with like it was a compressed pixelated signal, like overdrive on a fast delay pedal looped back into distortion, while lower tones sound, eh, sort of better? It is almost hidden when standing back @6 ft, but any closer and its apparent. Is this just lack of the Kube or is this failing caps on an old crossover?
 
Well, with my personal long term experience with the 103/3’s they sounded pretty damn good without the Kube…just better with it, so I would say the issue you’re experiencing is not due to lack of Kube. Matter of fact the Kube would probably make it worse, especially with contour engaged.
How did you ensure the voice coil stayed centered while installing the new surround?
Is it both speakers- have you tried a different amp/receiver? If you’ve covered all the basic troubleshooting, sounds like you may have to open them back up and pull the drivers and verify they are working properly with a frequency signal generator and tune to that freq. that is causing distortion.
 
My only other thought would be if the speakers were driven hard for an extended amount of time with failed surrounds, you may have damaged voice coils.
 
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