marvelus10
Active Member
That discrepancy caught my eye as well. I also did a google search and there is more pictures of X's with saggy badges.
Yamaha GT-2000 Turntable Social Group
- Thread starter timofred
- Start date
marvelus10
Active Member
That was quick and easy. Googled Yamaha GT-2000x hardoff. https://netmall.hardoff.co.jp/product/1812404/
It is very cheap, I suspect the guy on Ebay has it listed to resell, if he sells it he will run down to the Hardoff and buy it, then post it to buyer.
It is very cheap, I suspect the guy on Ebay has it listed to resell, if he sells it he will run down to the Hardoff and buy it, then post it to buyer.
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It looks like there's ample room for the bearing shaft to fit between the coils. Whatever differences are needed to accommodate the larger bearing shaft would be minor.
The base motor I believe is the same. JVC is likely the manufacturer.
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I can't open that link, possibly because I'm using an old version of Safari.
marvelus10
Active Member
This part stuck out for me,
Especially thanks to the YOP-1, the brake function works, which is really nice for me who had a hard time designing the brake circuit.
However, it is still a mystery for me why Yamaha made the brake function work only when using an external power supply because of the design of the player as a whole.
Because all the brake functions have already been included in the drive circuit.
I would be interested to see if it is possible without the YOP.
808_state
Super Member
Hardoff is a large reseller chain that is ubiquitous in Japan. I've been to two of their shops near Tokyo and you can get some real deals if you know what you're looking for. They also have an incredibly annoying jingle song that plays full time in the store. However as mentioned above there's a strong chance the ebay listing is a flipper or an employee whose side gig they are clueless to (they tend to exist in somewhat of a bubble).
Tekniknissen
Active Member
It's easy to open by just take a hard grip with your fingers around the round "upside down bowl" with the axle tip coming thru. Then just lift it up with some hard force while your other hand holds the base/bearing part. Now turn it slowly while dragging those parts apart. The fit between the axle and the bearing will create a vacuum and the magnet inside will also struggle some to give you some more force you need to overcome. After some struggling bit by bit it finally will be separated. The top/magnet part of the motor just looks like this:
Normally the motor is secured for breaking apart into these two pieces by the black Yamaha cage that the motor is attached to.
Tekniknissen
Active Member
My best guess why Yamaha did like this is spelled: profit. Why include the brake if that could only be achieved with an additional item to sell as the YOP-1
.Anyway the start/stop button have two channels: one is for cutting the 24V power from the power board to the control board. The other channel is for the start/stop signalling to the control board. When using the external YOP-1 the power overrides this cut out of the power switch and the brake is enabled when platter is spinning and the start/stop signal is cut by the switch but there still exist power coming in to the control board.
So yes by putting a jumper over the switch for the power channel makes the brake be enabled but you get the annoying blinking of the speed indicator led all the time when the platter is stopped and the GT-2000 is left in "stand by mode". Sure you can cut the power coming in from the mains by external switch.
Thanks Henrik, it was surprisingly easy to separate.
I can see that the plastic ring you said caused the scraping has partly come loose and needs to be re-glued. Its purpose appears to be as a dust guard.
This motor is so simple and elegant!
Tekniknissen
Active Member
Yes both acting as a dust guard but mostly as a ringing damper so to speak. If you use a small knife it might be better to take the plastic ring out completely before re gluing. Makes it more easy to get the glue where you want it to be. Just be careful since that plastic ring is quite fragile and breaks easily. Without that plastic it's a good bell from that metallic "bowl' when picking with your nail to it. With the plastic attached correctly it sounds almost nothing when picking and without any ringing at all. Huge difference!
808_state
Super Member
It happened early on into owning mine and I was pretty freaked out when I heard that scraping sound. It is one of the older units and the original glue never dries out but simply loses its ability to adhere. Never tried prying it apart but simply injected some rubber cement between the bell and ring, jammed some credit cards in between/below for support and let it dry overnight. It's been trouble free ever since. It would be interesting to know if they updated the glue in later runs.
Tekniknissen
Active Member
OK I reply to my own earlier reply regarding the brake. As I see it now when I have checked the power board some more (where all cables connects) there would be three different ways to do the brake modifications:My best guess why Yamaha did like this is spelled: profit. Why include the brake if that could only be achieved with an additional item to sell as the YOP-1
Anyway the start/stop button have two channels: one is for cutting the 24V power from the power board to the control board. The other channel is for the start/stop signalling to the control board. When using the external YOP-1 the power overrides this cut out of the power switch and the brake is enabled when platter is spinning and the start/stop signal is cut by the switch but there still exist power coming in to the control board.
So yes by putting a jumper over the switch for the power channel makes the brake be enabled but you get the annoying blinking of the speed indicator led all the time when the platter is stopped and the GT-2000 is left in "stand by mode". Sure you can cut the power coming in from the mains by external switch.
1. Quick and dirty: just put a jumper or simply short circuit the legs over C101 (can be seen down right in the pic below). Forget the yellow and black wire to the upper left - only for my tests. It's here the power comes in from the YOP-1 connector normally.
This gives power on all the time and both the power supply board and the controller board will have power all the time. Only way to get rid of the annoying LED blinking at the speed indicator while stopped will be to disconnect the mains.
2. Little more nice modification: Solder two wires from each leg of C101 or from the power boards underside to an external switch. Those cables can alternatively be soldered into the free hole near the T2s left leg and to the T2 left leg itself just to the right of the capacitor C101. This gives the opportunity to switch of the power as the start/stop button does originally. The disadvantage is that an extra button needs to be modified in somewhere in the turntables cabinet.
3. Best solution: Needs modifications to the power board (requires skills to modify PCBs) or to the cables (which I really don't recommend). Here is the underside of the power board:
If cutting the copper marked with pink it makes the power switch free in the on/off button to be connected as the orange line shows. That very tiny pink circle in the middle shows where to cut the GND/0V to the speed indicator so those LEDs ground will be routed thru the power switch instead. Those orange "circles" are where copper tracks needs to be joined by soldering small jumpers in. The small orange ring at the bottom is to connect GND/0V to one side of the switch (copper needs to be cleaned/scratched free from the paint/lacquer to be able to solder any jumper in). The right orange circle is for making the power from the transformer to always be switched on into the power board.
All these modifications will make power always be present to the power and controller board while the on/off button will switch of the annoying blinking LED when the switch is in the off state.
I take no responsibility if anyone does any of my suggested modifications and having a breakdown of their electronics.
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marvelus10
Active Member
Thank you Tekniknissen. Your description is pretty straight forward, a very easy mod.
Great information @808_state. I removed the plastic ring (it's actually magnetic) cleaned it and the surface of the motor housing that it was glued to, applied a thin layer of E6000 adhesive, placed some thin strips of plastic at 5 points on the perimeter of the motor and put the motor back together. I'll give it 72 hours to cure before I test it.
Congratulations, Pass Labs phono preamps are highly regarded.
IMO the quality of the phono stage is as important as the quality of the cartridge.
808_state
Super Member
Being so new to the table I was very reticent to pry the motor apart so I did the next best thing. I researched glues losing their adhesive properties and comments pointed me to the idea that rubber cement would have a slight drying effect on the residual glue (still tacky) and sort of "reinvigorate/repurpose" it without needing to clear any away.
808_state
Super Member
A pretty standard display setup for Japanese hifi/electronics. My dream trip would be renting a van and scouring the countryside for the real gems left by retiree's & estate sales.
Tekniknissen
Active Member
A very unusual color for the clear laqueur of our belowed GT-2000:
http://yahoo.aleado.com/lot?auctionID=514385955
http://yahoo.aleado.com/lot?auctionID=514385955
