Yamaha GT-2000 Turntable Social Group

[marvelus10]

aah.. I've just seen a ton of them for sale specifying the YA-39 tonearm.. but I suppose those were all upgraded, then?

Either way, I was happy with the YA-39 tonearm. Not a fan of the straight YSA versions, especially since I do not fancy AT ALL having to buy new headshells for the YSA-1 (the YSA-2 has a straight headshell, but cots 4 grand or thereabouts.. )

I feel like mine really only needs that weird pillar fixed to not tilt the tonearm gimbal when fastened.. not a reason to spend 1000s on a new tonearm..

Also, if I can get this fixed, I'll ask my local metal working shop if they would be able to make a copy of my platter..
brass (gunmetal, lol) is much cheaper than Copper.. Would've loved to use Monel (for the colour), but the Nickel would probably cause issues with the cartridge magnets?
(I take it, that's why nobody uses a stainless Steel platter with the same density as the gunmetal one? )

There are lots of ads that say that but they are not real YA-39s.

 

[craggd]

I’m sorry they’re not shipping screws they’re screws to pull the platter I don’t have them. I’m sending the whole tt, even though I don’t want to, I’m having it serviced and recapped.

You can order the eye bolts below. Will save you a lot of money on shipping and reduce the risk of further damage to a heavy turntable.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[brad6285]

You can order the eye bolts below. Will save you a lot of money on shipping and reduce the risk of further damage to a heavy turntable.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Thank you for the link

 

[brad6285]

is it possible to get a new dust cover. I just cracked mine. I’m going to try to glue it probably epoxy but I’m not sure it’ll hold.

 

[Mark B]

is it possible to get a new dust cover. I just cracked mine. I’m going to try to glue it probably epoxy but I’m not sure it’ll hold.

Use an acrylic glue like Weld-On 3 or 4. They have a water like consistency. Weld-On 3 sets faster than 4.

 

[808_state]

is it possible to get a new dust cover. I just cracked mine. I’m going to try to glue it probably epoxy but I’m not sure it’ll hold.

See my post two pages back. Otherwise Yahoo Japan auction has them or any plastic fabricator in the continental US could duplicate your dustcover.

 

[Mark B]

I just played around with mine.. the cables are not the issue. Neither is the plastic sliding pad of the cue lever.
The tonearm "drifts" no matter what. (I set it high above the record, so that it doesn't touch it when lowered fully.. and it will drift outwards no matter whether it is all the way above the runout grove, or at the outer edge.. when I set it ON the record, then the drifting doesn't happen unless the record spins.. but I can see the outward force bending the needle in..)

Removing the antiskate made it much less pronounced, though..

However, if I play around with the vertical adjustment, again, with the tonearm "floating" above the record, I could eliminate the drifting.
View attachment 3823528

Loosen the thumb screw and the tonearm fixture wiggles quite a bit (nothing precision about that, imo..)
It wiggles so much, that I can support it with one hand and adjust its ANGLE in a way that will cause the tonearm to NOT drift outward anymore.(By pushing the side opposite the thumbscrew "down" slightly)
As soon as I fasten the thumb screw, the opposite side gets LIFTED and the tonearm drifts outwards again.

my playing around revealed that I can get the tonearm to roughly stay in place no matter where above the record it was floating.. or even cause it to drift inward.. (without the antiskate pulling)

Maybe the tonearm base is not actually level and the fastened thumbscrew would actually fix it in a perfectly vertical position?
I'll need a tiny bubble scale to check the tonearm base..

It also doesn't matter where on the vertical axis I fasten the thumb screw, it always causes the "tilt" of the tonearm gimbal.. so it doesn't seem to be an indentation in the pillar underneath...

Maybe that's Brad's issue, too?

Have you checked if the cartridge stylus is OK? While you're at it check the cartridge cantilever to see if it's OK.

 

[mbphotox]

Have you checked if the cartridge stylus is OK? While you're at it check the cartridge cantilever to see if it's OK.

Cartridge, cantilever, and stylus are fine.
The tonearm drifts outwards no matter what.
if I set the VTA so that the needle never even touches the record, it drifts outwards. (with the antiskate removed, it still drifts)

when I loosen the VTA adjustment thumbscrew enough to be able to wiggle the tonearm about (not just slide it up and down along that pillar) I can tilt it one way or another and make the tonearm drift outwards faster, more slowly, stop it from drifting entirely, and even get it to drift inward towards the center.

 

[Mark B]

Cartridge, cantilever, and stylus are fine.
The tonearm drifts outwards no matter what.
if I set the VTA so that the needle never even touches the record, it drifts outwards. (with the antiskate removed, it still drifts)

when I loosen the VTA adjustment thumbscrew enough to be able to wiggle the tonearm about (not just slide it up and down along that pillar) I can tilt it one way or another and make the tonearm drift outwards faster, more slowly, stop it from drifting entirely, and even get it to drift inward towards the center.

Is the base of the turntable level?

 

[mbphotox]

Is the base of the turntable level?

yeah, the base is level, but I only have one of those construction levels to check, like this:

 

[Mark B]

yeah, the base is level, but I only have one of those construction levels to check, like this:
View attachment 3832507

Sounds like time for a replacement tonearm.

 

[mbphotox]

Sounds like time for a replacement tonearm.

because the tonearm vertical alignment doesn't keep the tonearm level?
Shouldn't require a replacement, imo?

 

[brad6285]

of these 2 carts, at33sa or at33xmlb, which would be the better choice for the ya-39 tonearm. I had a at33sa but recently broke the cantilever off but I haven’t heard the at33xmlb.

 

[808_state]

of these 2 carts, at33sa or at33xmlb, which would be the better choice for the ya-39 tonearm. I had a at33sa but recently broke the cantilever off but I haven’t heard the at33xmlb.

The xmlb is heavier and less compliant, making it a better match for the YA-39 arm and probably very workable for the YSA-1.

 

[Mark B]

because the tonearm vertical alignment doesn't keep the tonearm level?
Shouldn't require a replacement, imo?

If you're going to attempt to fix the tonearm check out this thread by zoojunkie:

 

[mbphotox]

found a slimmed-down GT-2000X it seems..

Yamaha Gt-2000x Ysa-1 Turntable at 2200.00 USD at Best Price in Denpasar | Arviera Audio

Arviera Audio - Offering low price Yamaha Gt-2000x Ysa-1 Turntable at 2200.00 USD in Nusa Dua, Denpasar with product details & company information.

www.tradeindia.com

34kg is more than the GT-2000 and GT-2000L, but the GT-2000X should come with the gunmetal platter, no?!
It DOES look like the base from the GT-2000X, since it's taller than the 2000 and 2000L.. but the platter seems to be the regular one?!

(I was just googling around for info about the YSA-1 and stuff..)

 

[mbphotox]

If you're going to attempt to fix the tonearm check out this thread by zoojunkie:

thank you, checked it out.

zoojunkie seems to have fixed it by buying a new tonearm
He also identified an issue with the "hinge" of the tonearm's horizontal movement.
(I don't dare take it apart for fear of being unable to re-assemble it.. but a skewered hinge was my very first suspicion.. the tonearm base's pillar being the culprit seems more likely, though..)

I'll buy a precision bubble level to see if I can identify any issues with the tonearm assembly.


And I just realised that the YSA-1 is the exact same tonearm as the YA-39 ?!?!
Literally the only difference between the two is the straight tube + angled headshell versus an angled tube and replaceable headshell?!?!

some have this fancy polished steel pillar instead of the stock aluminium one.. I wonder if they were replaced due to the drifting issue I'm experiencing?!



looking at images online, that stock pillar seems to be rare, lol..



the YA-39 looks absolutely identical (but it's not just the tube that's different, I realise. It appears to be the tube AND the square frame that holds the tonearm and rotates in the base. (the rod for the antiskate protrudes at a right angle from the YSA-1 frame,) :




this guy even sells/sold a YSA-1 "tonearm"... although, it's just the YSA-1 tube and headshell on the YA-39 base..

https://www.aussieaudiomart.com/details/649758757-yamaha-ysa-1-tonearm-from-gt-2000x-record-player-with-yal-1-auto-lifter-and-original-headshell/images/3368316/

well.. what even IS the "YA-39 base" if they are the same?!

 

[esprits4s]

found a slimmed-down GT-2000X it seems..

Yamaha Gt-2000x Ysa-1 Turntable at 2200.00 USD at Best Price in Denpasar | Arviera Audio

Arviera Audio - Offering low price Yamaha Gt-2000x Ysa-1 Turntable at 2200.00 USD in Nusa Dua, Denpasar with product details & company information.

www.tradeindia.com

34kg is more than the GT-2000 and GT-2000L, but the GT-2000X should come with the gunmetal platter, no?!
It DOES look like the base from the GT-2000X, since it's taller than the 2000 and 2000L.. but the platter seems to be the regular one?!

(I was just googling around for info about the YSA-1 and stuff..)

The stock platter on the GT-2000X is the same as on the GT-2000 and GT-2000L. The gunmetal platter was an optional upgrade.

The price in that link you shared is very low for an X. Caveat Emptor.

 

[mbphotox]

The stock platter on the GT-2000X is the same as on the GT-2000 and GT-2000L. The gunmetal platter was an optional upgrade.

The price in that link you shared is very low for an X. Caveat Emptor.

ridiculously low, yes..

just the tonearm alone would be "worth" that much if it works properly..

didn't know that the platter wasn't always the heavy one on the x, thanks.

 

[808_state]

thank you, checked it out.

zoojunkie seems to have fixed it by buying a new tonearm
He also identified an issue with the "hinge" of the tonearm's horizontal movement.
(I don't dare take it apart for fear of being unable to re-assemble it.. but a skewered hinge was my very first suspicion.. the tonearm base's pillar being the culprit seems more likely, though..)

I'll buy a precision bubble level to see if I can identify any issues with the tonearm assembly.


And I just realised that the YSA-1 is the exact same tonearm as the YA-39 ?!?!
Literally the only difference between the two is the straight tube + angled headshell versus an angled tube and replaceable headshell?!?!

some have this fancy polished steel pillar instead of the stock aluminium one.. I wonder if they were replaced due to the drifting issue I'm experiencing?!
View attachment 3838994


looking at images online, that stock pillar seems to be rare, lol..

View attachment 3838995

the YA-39 looks absolutely identical (but it's not just the tube that's different, I realise. It appears to be the tube AND the square frame that holds the tonearm and rotates in the base. (the rod for the antiskate protrudes at a right angle from the YSA-1 frame,) :
View attachment 3838999



this guy even sells/sold a YSA-1 "tonearm"... although, it's just the YSA-1 tube and headshell on the YA-39 base..

https://www.aussieaudiomart.com/details/649758757-yamaha-ysa-1-tonearm-from-gt-2000x-record-player-with-yal-1-auto-lifter-and-original-headshell/images/3368316/

well.. what even IS the "YA-39 base" if they are the same?!
View attachment 3838997

They are theoretically the same base design, including the YSA-2 (ironically the same designs as those used on some budget Vestax tables). The arm that comes with the 2000X actually says YSA-1 on the arm pillar, the ones that were sold separately have the polished metal pillar and the ones with YA-39 have been swapped. The problems come with the swapping of arms to bases. There were likely many different production runs and while they sort of fit interchangeably, they don't all fit perfectly together. If for example the arm to pillar fit is the problem with your arm, it could have been due to swapping. You could swap a YA-39 arm piece from one base to another and it still may not be a smooth fit.