Yamaha GT-2000 Turntable Social Group

[marvelus10]

aah.. I've just seen a ton of them for sale specifying the YA-39 tonearm.. but I suppose those were all upgraded, then?

Either way, I was happy with the YA-39 tonearm. Not a fan of the straight YSA versions, especially since I do not fancy AT ALL having to buy new headshells for the YSA-1 (the YSA-2 has a straight headshell, but cots 4 grand or thereabouts.. )

I feel like mine really only needs that weird pillar fixed to not tilt the tonearm gimbal when fastened.. not a reason to spend 1000s on a new tonearm..

Also, if I can get this fixed, I'll ask my local metal working shop if they would be able to make a copy of my platter..
brass (gunmetal, lol) is much cheaper than Copper.. Would've loved to use Monel (for the colour), but the Nickel would probably cause issues with the cartridge magnets?
(I take it, that's why nobody uses a stainless Steel platter with the same density as the gunmetal one? )

There are lots of ads that say that but they are not real YA-39s.

 

[craggd]

I’m sorry they’re not shipping screws they’re screws to pull the platter I don’t have them. I’m sending the whole tt, even though I don’t want to, I’m having it serviced and recapped.

You can order the eye bolts below. Will save you a lot of money on shipping and reduce the risk of further damage to a heavy turntable.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[brad6285]

You can order the eye bolts below. Will save you a lot of money on shipping and reduce the risk of further damage to a heavy turntable.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Thank you for the link

 

[brad6285]

is it possible to get a new dust cover. I just cracked mine. I’m going to try to glue it probably epoxy but I’m not sure it’ll hold.

 

[Mark B]

is it possible to get a new dust cover. I just cracked mine. I’m going to try to glue it probably epoxy but I’m not sure it’ll hold.

Use an acrylic glue like Weld-On 3 or 4. They have a water like consistency. Weld-On 3 sets faster than 4.

 

[808_state]

is it possible to get a new dust cover. I just cracked mine. I’m going to try to glue it probably epoxy but I’m not sure it’ll hold.

See my post two pages back. Otherwise Yahoo Japan auction has them or any plastic fabricator in the continental US could duplicate your dustcover.

 

[Mark B]

I just played around with mine.. the cables are not the issue. Neither is the plastic sliding pad of the cue lever.
The tonearm "drifts" no matter what. (I set it high above the record, so that it doesn't touch it when lowered fully.. and it will drift outwards no matter whether it is all the way above the runout grove, or at the outer edge.. when I set it ON the record, then the drifting doesn't happen unless the record spins.. but I can see the outward force bending the needle in..)

Removing the antiskate made it much less pronounced, though..

However, if I play around with the vertical adjustment, again, with the tonearm "floating" above the record, I could eliminate the drifting.
View attachment 3823528

Loosen the thumb screw and the tonearm fixture wiggles quite a bit (nothing precision about that, imo..)
It wiggles so much, that I can support it with one hand and adjust its ANGLE in a way that will cause the tonearm to NOT drift outward anymore.(By pushing the side opposite the thumbscrew "down" slightly)
As soon as I fasten the thumb screw, the opposite side gets LIFTED and the tonearm drifts outwards again.

my playing around revealed that I can get the tonearm to roughly stay in place no matter where above the record it was floating.. or even cause it to drift inward.. (without the antiskate pulling)

Maybe the tonearm base is not actually level and the fastened thumbscrew would actually fix it in a perfectly vertical position?
I'll need a tiny bubble scale to check the tonearm base..

It also doesn't matter where on the vertical axis I fasten the thumb screw, it always causes the "tilt" of the tonearm gimbal.. so it doesn't seem to be an indentation in the pillar underneath...

Maybe that's Brad's issue, too?

Have you checked if the cartridge stylus is OK? While you're at it check the cartridge cantilever to see if it's OK.

 

[mbphotox]

Have you checked if the cartridge stylus is OK? While you're at it check the cartridge cantilever to see if it's OK.

Cartridge, cantilever, and stylus are fine.
The tonearm drifts outwards no matter what.
if I set the VTA so that the needle never even touches the record, it drifts outwards. (with the antiskate removed, it still drifts)

when I loosen the VTA adjustment thumbscrew enough to be able to wiggle the tonearm about (not just slide it up and down along that pillar) I can tilt it one way or another and make the tonearm drift outwards faster, more slowly, stop it from drifting entirely, and even get it to drift inward towards the center.

 

[Mark B]

Cartridge, cantilever, and stylus are fine.
The tonearm drifts outwards no matter what.
if I set the VTA so that the needle never even touches the record, it drifts outwards. (with the antiskate removed, it still drifts)

when I loosen the VTA adjustment thumbscrew enough to be able to wiggle the tonearm about (not just slide it up and down along that pillar) I can tilt it one way or another and make the tonearm drift outwards faster, more slowly, stop it from drifting entirely, and even get it to drift inward towards the center.

Is the base of the turntable level?

 

[mbphotox]

Is the base of the turntable level?

yeah, the base is level, but I only have one of those construction levels to check, like this: