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Yamaha GT-2000 Turntable Social Group

Brunomarcs I'm sure you can be calm about the performance even without that cabling. If your power supply isn't causing any hum now then it's obvious of good quality and good design without any leakage to the mains ground. Otherwise ground loops might mess up things when there are loops no one even thought about. If I remember correct that internal ground cabling is more or less coming back to the original internal powersupply's 0V thru a small capacitor. That meaning the only "hard connection" for hum and interference to pass is thru the screen of the cabling out from pickup/tonearm to the rest of the stereosystem and then make all system coming to the same signal ground. Now when the internal ground cable is missing nothing changes as long as motor is powered by a good power supply having the same ground reference as the rest of the system.
So now you all think: what? Ground is ground... Simple. Yes but power supply doesn't necessarily need to have the 0V output to be at the exact same level as mains ground or the rest of the stereosystem signal ground. If not same level then the whole motor/platter might start to act as a huge capacitor to the tonearm/pickup and introduce hum/interference to the signal from the pickup. Now there is nothing keeping the power supply's 0V to the systems ground level any more since that cable is missing between motor and tonearm. So it might work or it won't. All depending on powersupply design and selection of pickup for example.

I'm working with EMC (electro magnetic compatibility) almost daily so it's alot to consider when designing electronics and everyday something new is discovered about complex signal paths and how interference can travel in a system.
 
When I reworked mine I removed that wire completely from the carcass, along with the earth ground that attach’s from pcb to motor because I removed the power supply, no hum detected yet, I hope I didn’t screw up though!

That's one mod I'd like to do to my GT, remove the PSU (and power cord) completely and replace it with a block of heavy damping material.
 
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That's one mod I'd like to do to my GT, remove the PSU (and power cord) completely and replace it with a block of heavy damping material.
You could do it in 1/2 an hour, these are simple machines to fool with. I have taken mine apart and re installed it several times throughout the process. As long as a connection doesn’t stick and break off, Mine came right apart. I put a mark on them for correct orientation but can only go one way.
 
View attachment 1587712 You could do it in 1/2 an hour, these are simple machines to fool with. I have taken mine apart and re installed it several times throughout the process. As long as a connection doesn’t stick and break off, Mine came right apart. I put a mark on them for correct orientation but can only go one way.

Oh yeah, I opened mine up to remove the motor and it was incredibly easy.
 
Is there a post on any motor maintenance? I did read where there is a rubber piece which had to be re-glued or something of that effect? I took the bottom two or three screws off of the spindle and it had a little oil on there, still there after so many years, I could almost re-cap this myself it seems so easy! Only 3 hrs left on the 407/GT arm, study the end time and watch it change
 
Brunomarcs on page 54 of this thread I put up a few pics of the naked motor and that plastic/rubber like thing that eventually loosens over time and needs to be reglued. The whole pcb carrying the windings inside the motor needs to be loosened from the top of the casted motor metallic parts. Then the spindle can be dragged up from that bearing you mentioned in your last post above. It can feel like it's stucked and only possible to spin but it just needs twisting and dragging at the same time to pop out from the bearing. Then the plastic reglue issue is easy fixed.
 
The 407GT was made to have the same pivot to spindle distance as the YA-39 and YSA-1. The 'normal' 407 is a 9 inch arm the 407GT is 10.5 inches.
Hi Theo, any chance you can edit the original post to include our new and very talented members, Brunomarcs, Poorbeek and Tekniknissen.
 
I was thinking do I actually have A GT2000? I have a motor plate, a platter, electronics. I plan on restoring the original plinth only difference that’ll be on that is I’ll add 2” to the height and some wicked veneer of some sort. It’ll be on standby for when I purchase another one, presumably it’ll be damaged too, as to save a few bucks.
 
Holy smokes that's a nice one. Refresh my memory, what does that weigh in LBS? I wonder if you could buy it for $5K plus shipping?
 
I notice on that X model on eBay the veneer doesn’t waterfall off the top down the sides! Is that normal? Tell me again, these have a larger more powerful motor?
 
On the X the feet has some metallic cylinder instead of plastic. I think I read somewhere the lid is a notch heavier too with 10mm sidewalls instead of 8mm and got darker almost smoke colored instead of full transparent.
 
I went and looked at the spindle difference, very interesting, seems as though you could’ve bought a gt200x with gunmetal platter for 3,900 from hifido less than 10 years ago, I’m sure the majority of you know that and are kicking yourself!
 
So the same motor and electronics, easy to add on to the plinth and veneer, aftermarket dome taller and better all around, have a shop fabricate a new bearing and spindle to beefier specs! We would all buy one.
 
So the same motor and electronics, easy to add on to the plinth and veneer, aftermarket dome taller and better all around, have a shop fabricate a new bearing and spindle to beefier specs! We would all buy one.

It would seem that with the larger bearing assembly, it is possible to build an X out of a standard model. The only really odd thing is that the vintage knob lists wow & flutter as 0.025% for the X and 0.005% for the standard 2000 & L. Surely this is a typo.
 
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