KEF owners thread

[Ken Mitchell]

Well, with the 4.2’s and 2.2’s in the Lounge I have just about finished repositioning my Bedroom system. 1.2’s and 3.2’s looking lovely and the Mrs is happy to boot. Result in anyone’s book me thinks. I am happy with it. Cheers.

I didn't realize there was such a difference is size between the Model 1-2 and the Model 3-2. It's remarkable.

My upstairs guest room is similar shape, and orientation of the sound system to the bed the same. With mine, the angled part of the ceiling-wall intersection is less, but it's there on both opposing walls and no windows there.

The walls and ceiling are both horsehair plaster, and now have quite a bit of blown-in insulation behind them. The floor is one with heavy pad, plush carpeting on top of that, and a Berbar carpet on that. Overall, the room is the acoustical best in the house, so I told me wife today we're turning the other empty room upstairs into the guest bedroom and I'm taking over the other as my main music listening room. I will put me best system up there!

 

[JohnnyNapalm]

Hi Ken, it is a similar ratio between the 2.2’s and the 4.2’s. I did wonder about moving my main system into the bedroom. Maybe I will in time. I should line up all the speakers and take a family photo for the album.

 

[simplynuts]

Opinion on kef c80? Should I Recap and redo ferrofluid? They seem bright. Amazing bass and midrange. Not as nice as the roger studio 1a I had.

 

[Spe@kerBox]

For anyone interested I have a pair of KEF Q10s which I got on CL a while back. Could not make them sound good. Boomy, sizzley, and harsh. I just could not believe that they should sound as bad as they did. So I finally got around to recapping (7uf replaced with Dayton films, 16uf replaced with Nichicon Audio Grade Electrolytics). It is a different speaker now! Detailed and smooth. Really sounds good! The original Bennic caps were way out of spec (more than 20%). One of the 16uf measured in at 25uf. The 7uf caps were at 10 or so.

 

[rickb119]

Opinion on kef c80? Should I Recap and redo ferrofluid? They seem bright. Amazing bass and midrange. Not as nice as the roger studio 1a I had.

I would first check to insure that they are the correct tweeters. Should have a label on them showing, T33 SP1089. If there is no label, they are aftermarket and the reason why they sound bright. I ran into that with a pair of 104/2's that I bought. (They now have the correct tweeters in them.) If they are correct, then yes, I would replace the ferrofluid. I'd also recap them, although you may or may not notice a difference after the recap.

Here's a little info on the c80, from the KEF site.
C80 (1985-88)
Substantially the largest C-Series model, the slim, elegant, floor standing C80 was very much the Reference Model 104/2 for the cost conscious audiophile. The famous B139 provided exceptional bass quality and extension for the cabinet size and the new polypropylene-coned B160 allowed high sensitivity and power handling along with low colouration through the mid-band. The C80 was the second C-Series model to benefit from KEF’s ‘conjugate load’ crossover network design, originally developed for Model 104/2. The net effect on your hi-fi system of replacing a conventional 8 ohm speaker with one which presents a 4 ohm constant resistance is that you can double the sound power output of your existing amplifier without any increase in distortion.

 

[Ken Mitchell]

I would first check to insure that they are the correct tweeters. Should have a label on them showing, T33 SP1089. If there is no label, they are aftermarket and the reason why they sound bright. I ran into that with a pair of 104/2's that I bought. (They now have the correct tweeters in them.) If they are correct, then yes, I would replace the ferrofluid. I'd also recap them, although you may or may not notice a difference after the recap.

Here's a little info on the c80, from the KEF site.
C80 (1985-88)
Substantially the largest C-Series model, the slim, elegant, floor standing C80 was very much the Reference Model 104/2 for the cost conscious audiophile. The famous B139 provided exceptional bass quality and extension for the cabinet size and the new polypropylene-coned B160 allowed high sensitivity and power handling along with low colouration through the mid-band. The C80 was the second C-Series model to benefit from KEF’s ‘conjugate load’ crossover network design, originally developed for Model 104/2. The net effect on your hi-fi system of replacing a conventional 8 ohm speaker with one which presents a 4 ohm constant resistance is that you can double the sound power output of your existing amplifier without any increase in distortion.

Good advice right there, well done! That KEF Museum website is a GREAT tool, and I wish they'd update it with 2010-2019 information.

 

[simplynuts]

I would first check to insure that they are the correct tweeters. Should have a label on them showing, T33 SP1089. If there is no label, they are aftermarket and the reason why they sound bright. I ran into that with a pair of 104/2's that I bought. (They now have the correct tweeters in them.) If they are correct, then yes, I would replace the ferrofluid. I'd also recap them, although you may or may not notice a difference after the recap.

Here's a little info on the c80, from the KEF site.
C80 (1985-88)
Substantially the largest C-Series model, the slim, elegant, floor standing C80 was very much the Reference Model 104/2 for the cost conscious audiophile. The famous B139 provided exceptional bass quality and extension for the cabinet size and the new polypropylene-coned B160 allowed high sensitivity and power handling along with low colouration through the mid-band. The C80 was the second C-Series model to benefit from KEF’s ‘conjugate load’ crossover network design, originally developed for Model 104/2. The net effect on your hi-fi system of replacing a conventional 8 ohm speaker with one which presents a 4 ohm constant resistance is that you can double the sound power output of your existing amplifier without any increase in distortion.

Thank you. I will pull tweeter and check. Is there a sticky for ferrofluid replacement procedure?

 

[rickb119]

Is there a sticky for ferrofluid replacement procedure?

I don't think so, but there are a few utube video's out there. Do a google search for ferrofluid replacement (or something like that). Not really difficult, just be sure to go slow and be careful.

 

[simplynuts]

I would first check to insure that they are the correct tweeters. Should have a label on them showing, T33 SP1089. If there is no label, they are aftermarket and the reason why they sound bright. I ran into that with a pair of 104/2's that I bought. (They now have the correct tweeters in them.) If they are correct, then yes, I would replace the ferrofluid. I'd also recap them, although you may or may not notice a difference after the recap.

Here's a little info on the c80, from the KEF site.
C80 (1985-88)
Substantially the largest C-Series model, the slim, elegant, floor standing C80 was very much the Reference Model 104/2 for the cost conscious audiophile. The famous B139 provided exceptional bass quality and extension for the cabinet size and the new polypropylene-coned B160 allowed high sensitivity and power handling along with low colouration through the mid-band. The C80 was the second C-Series model to benefit from KEF’s ‘conjugate load’ crossover network design, originally developed for Model 104/2. The net effect on your hi-fi system of replacing a conventional 8 ohm speaker with one which presents a 4 ohm constant resistance is that you can double the sound power output of your existing amplifier without any increase in distortion.

I pulled both tweeters on the kef c80's and they are the correct tweeters.Ferrofluid first and then recap? What cap values are in there and how hard to change? I also noticed it has a two position hookup for against the wall or away from wal. Which is better or does it depend on room?

 

[Ross6860]

I pulled both tweeters on the kef c80's and they are the correct tweeters.Ferrofluid first and then recap? What cap values are in there and how hard to change? I also noticed it has a two position hookup for against the wall or away from wal. Which is better or does it depend on room?

The only trick is taking the tweeter apart without destroying the gasket, or the voice coil.

Go slow and be careful. You can get the ferrofluid from Parts Express. I did my KEF 104/2 tweeters with good results.

I don't know what the crossovers look like on your speakers, but the 104/2 are monsters. The re-cap kit from Falcon Acoustics was in the $100+ range, give or take. All electrolytics, too. No poly-caps.

https://www.audioasylum.com/message...-s-most-complicated-crossover-kef-c80-restore

Good luck with your project.

 

[rickb119]

They seem bright.

Do you have a different amp you could try with them? I drive my 104/2's with a B&K 4420 and they sound great. The Sansui AU-919 does make them sound a little bright.

I pulled both tweeters on the kef c80's and they are the correct tweeters.Ferrofluid first and then recap? What cap values are in there and how hard to change? I also noticed it has a two position hookup for against the wall or away from wal. Which is better or does it depend on room?

Do the tweeters first, but you may or may not hear a difference. Still, they need to be done.

Can't help with the caps, but you could always replace like for like. Of course you would have to pull the crossover first, to see what's there. Don't know about the position hook up either. Try it both ways to find which sounds better to you.

 

[DOBIEGUY]

Hey @simplynuts
Not sure how the tweeters are removed from your model. Don’t put a soldering iron anywhere near those tweeters, cut the wires and use butt connectors later.
I’ve used this Exacto knife with success many times. Just go round and round without twisting the blade until the diaphragm comes loose.
Watch the Youtube video. The fluid is available from a seller on Ebay with free shipping. It’s the same product everyone sells Quickly shipped free. Free is good !

 

[simplynuts]

Thanks guys. Going to try different amp first. Is there a way of telling if it needs ferrofluid before taking apart? Not sure I want to try this.

 

[arts]

Update: Finally I have found a mint pair of Reference Model 2.2’s. As of yesterday I now own the complete range, 1.2’s, 2.2’s, 3.2’s, 4.2’s and the 200C. It has taken me 20 years to get here but you can’t rush a good thing. Cheers.

Great. Now there is a pair of Model 4's available for reasonable money. Unfortunately, a ten-hour+ round trip. Arrgh!

 

[Ross6860]

Thanks guys. Going to try different amp first. Is there a way of telling if it needs ferrofluid before taking apart? Not sure I want to try this.

The KEF T33 tweeter is known for this issue. They all dry out and are old enough to need service.

If the original ferrofluid has dried out and deposited in the "wrong" place, it can actually wear through the voice coil and ruin the tweeter during operation. Cleaning out the old dried up fluid and replacing with fresh is maintenance for these guys, not a repair.

Some folks report hearing distortion from the tweeter, but by that time the voice coil is rubbing.

Maybe there's an AK'er near you willing to help out? I think I finished these up in a couple hours.

If you are the least bit handy you can handle this. If you are not handy at all, you may want to pass.

 

[DOBIEGUY]

Hey nuts
Your tweeters need to be serviced. Understand that causing them to fail will make your KEFs worth nothing and impossible to sell. There is a guy on Ebay that offers ferrofluid service for a reasonable price. Spend a few bucks and put this issue to bed.

 

[Lou G]

It is fairly simple to replace the ferrofluid in the T33 tweeters. The T33s in my KEF 104/2s took about a half hour for each tweeter. The ferrofluid is inexpensive, about $12 plus shipping for two 100 ul tubes from Parts Express. You have to clean out the old dry ferrofluid first as shown in those online videos.

 

[JohnnyNapalm]

Great. Now there is a pair of Model 4's available for reasonable money. Unfortunately, a ten-hour+ round trip. Arrgh!

I took a 4h each way ferry ride and 3hr each way drive for my 4.2’s and was not disappointed. The Mrs thought I was mad but it was worth it. The 4, 4.2’s are awesome imo. I love how full and detailed the sound is. Cheers

 

[simplynuts]

Hey nuts
Your tweeters need to be serviced. Understand that causing them to fail will make your KEFs worth nothing and impossible to sell. There is a guy on Ebay that offers ferrofluid service for a reasonable price. Spend a few bucks and put this issue to bed.

They play now. Maybe join as a subscriber and sell them to a fellow aker?

 

[arts]

I took a 4h each way ferry ride and 3hr each way drive for my 4.2’s and was not disappointed. The Mrs thought I was mad but it was worth it. The 4, 4.2’s are awesome imo. I love how full and detailed the sound is. Cheers

Ah yes, a fellow fanatic

I'm kind of on the fence, as the Model Three's are already doing an awesome job. Dammit, decisions decisions.....