808_state
Super Member
FYI-Yahoo Japan has a YGT-1 Gunmetal platter starting bid $6400
-the one on EBay sold a couple of weeks ago for
$3000 plus shipping
That guy will give up and open it to bid. Nobody will pay $6800 for a YGT.
FYI-Yahoo Japan has a YGT-1 Gunmetal platter starting bid $6400
-the one on EBay sold a couple of weeks ago for
$3000 plus shipping
I won it for 850.00 For several hundred more another one sold in way better condition after this one ended. An X model sold for over 5,100 I didn’t understand that, being it was without any accessories! This is on buyee Japan of course, hard for me to deal with these folks.
Or as I call it: The stupid redundant idiotic thing that hangs over the platter.
Yep it is the idiotic thing which is idiotically not possible to find that i am idiotically searching for![]()
I've got a spare SRIT. Send me a PM if you want it.Yep it is the idiotic thing which is idiotically not possible to find that i am idiotically searching for![]()
I've got a spare SRIT. Send me a PM if you want it.
I’d like to trade it for a seac we 407, Ha. I don’t see how the YSA-2 can even work properly but did read everything I can find on it. The table cost me 920 for the first payment, don’t even know if it works, all I have is pictures? I imagine shipping and any other fees and I’ll be up to 1500, probably not a smart buy! Last month I bought a YP-D71 off of barter town, not much of a table compared to my QL-Y7 of which I’ve bid on another, somebody snipe that one please.What are your plans for the tonearm?
I’d like to trade it for a seac we 407, Ha. I don’t see how the YSA-2 can even work properly but did read everything I can find on it. The table cost me 920 for the first payment, don’t even know if it works, all I have is pictures? I imagine shipping and any other fees and I’ll be up to 1500, probably not a smart buy! Last month I bought a YP-D71 off of barter town, not much of a table compared to my QL-Y7 of which I’ve bid on another, somebody snipe that one please.
All this talk of tonearms had me looking at possible future options which ended up with me finding this brand new 10.5" long option from Reed. It looks fantastic and is priced very reasonably. It also has the benefit of having the tonearm cable coming out of the back as opposed to the underside. Which means all you need to do is have a cover plate machined to fit over the existing tonearm hole and then simply attach the tonearm to the new cover plate.
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This is the cover plate used for the Fidelity Research arms. But with the Reed you don't need the ugly slot.
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Glad someone else feels the same about the Reed. I really need to justify the purchase to myself, LOL. As for the YSA-1, that is waaayyyy over priced.
It will take around a month to deinstall and reinsall electronics together with reveneering my GT2000. So i am impatiently waiting till it is finished.
Mark B thanks for the speed indicator i am very hsppy with it.
I choose this finish and color. View attachment 1525611
I got a message from the service shop. The GT-2000 is now disassembled and the electronics look good and not damaged. The underside of the plinth is a little bit rough but when i look on pictures online they all have that. The plinth is on the way to the veneer shop for the reveneer job that will take around 3 weeks because the lacqueer will have to dry everytime it is lacquered and that takes a lot of time. In the meantime the service shop is going to look to the armlift to fix it.
What i can not see is if the bottom part is also veneered or only painted is there anyone with a GT2000x that can check that?
Hello@tuffgong should be able to answer that question.
Assuming all the parts for the lifter are present/intact, the possible issues are thus:
-emitter/receiver diode is misaligned or the three prong plastic bracket that guides the clear plastic wand (looks like a little sword and directs light to the diode) is missing a prong
-the e/r diode is dead (it's literally the same sensor used to position tape in a VCR - cheap fix)
-there is a bad/scratchy contact in the finger dial/potentiometer that's used to adjust lift position (actually controls sensitivity of the e/r diode).
Otherwise they are pretty robust and straightforward.