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Yamaha GT-2000 Turntable Social Group

I won it for 850.00 For several hundred more another one sold in way better condition after this one ended. An X model sold for over 5,100 I didn’t understand that, being it was without any accessories! This is on buyee Japan of course, hard for me to deal with these folks.

What are your plans for the tonearm?
 
What are your plans for the tonearm?
I’d like to trade it for a seac we 407, Ha. I don’t see how the YSA-2 can even work properly but did read everything I can find on it. The table cost me 920 for the first payment, don’t even know if it works, all I have is pictures? I imagine shipping and any other fees and I’ll be up to 1500, probably not a smart buy! Last month I bought a YP-D71 off of barter town, not much of a table compared to my QL-Y7 of which I’ve bid on another, somebody snipe that one please.
 
I’d like to trade it for a seac we 407, Ha. I don’t see how the YSA-2 can even work properly but did read everything I can find on it. The table cost me 920 for the first payment, don’t even know if it works, all I have is pictures? I imagine shipping and any other fees and I’ll be up to 1500, probably not a smart buy! Last month I bought a YP-D71 off of barter town, not much of a table compared to my QL-Y7 of which I’ve bid on another, somebody snipe that one please.

The YSA-2 actually aligns with an underhang. I'm not saying this is good or even advantageous but that's how they designed it. The 407 typically goes for a lot more money than the YSA-2.
 
All this talk of tonearms had me looking at possible future options which ended up with me finding this brand new 10.5" long option from Reed. It looks fantastic and is priced very reasonably. It also has the benefit of having the tonearm cable coming out of the back as opposed to the underside. Which means all you need to do is have a cover plate machined to fit over the existing tonearm hole and then simply attach the tonearm to the new cover plate.

4a071c64184f6ed127d1b90fcde1a863_XL.jpg


This is the cover plate used for the Fidelity Research arms. But with the Reed you don't need the ugly slot.

lexcoupe430-img600x450-1257562238mwvqgb37641.jpg
 
Here's another picture showing the back where the tonearm cable attaches. Apparently there is an option for continuous wiring where you eliminate the DIN connector. This tonearm makes me drool LOL.

Reed-1X-tonearm2.jpg
 
All this talk of tonearms had me looking at possible future options which ended up with me finding this brand new 10.5" long option from Reed. It looks fantastic and is priced very reasonably. It also has the benefit of having the tonearm cable coming out of the back as opposed to the underside. Which means all you need to do is have a cover plate machined to fit over the existing tonearm hole and then simply attach the tonearm to the new cover plate.

4a071c64184f6ed127d1b90fcde1a863_XL.jpg


This is the cover plate used for the Fidelity Research arms. But with the Reed you don't need the ugly slot.

lexcoupe430-img600x450-1257562238mwvqgb37641.jpg

As undesirable as the slot might look, I tend to wonder if it's functionality would allow for better, more accurate adjustment of the pivot to spindle distance.
 
I need to buy an arm and had a figure in mind of say 1800 bucks but now I need to take out a second mortgage for a reed, with the ebony on it, absolutely beautiful. Probably best to purchase a working GT. Ebay has an SA-1 for over 2100
 
Glad someone else feels the same about the Reed. I really need to justify the purchase to myself, LOL. As for the YSA-1, that is waaayyyy over priced.
 
Glad someone else feels the same about the Reed. I really need to justify the purchase to myself, LOL. As for the YSA-1, that is waaayyyy over priced.

I can tell you exactly where that arm came from (Audio Union) and their selling price was 148,000 Yen (1,365 USD). Price gouging for sure. Champagne wishes and caviar dreams.
 
It will take around a month to deinstall and reinsall electronics together with reveneering my GT2000. So i am impatiently waiting till it is finished.

Mark B thanks for the speed indicator i am very hsppy with it.

I choose this finish and color. 6ce82c9844eb15085079063fd5c3b6ad.jpg
 
It will take around a month to deinstall and reinsall electronics together with reveneering my GT2000. So i am impatiently waiting till it is finished.

Mark B thanks for the speed indicator i am very hsppy with it.

I choose this finish and color. View attachment 1525611

That's going to look awesome. Can't wait to see the final result!

I wish I could get a hold of an old scratched up 2000x foot so I could have a shop replicate it. It's just an outer shell that slides over the standard GT foot. I think the powder coat is identical to my YDS-8 clamp and the arm tube on both the YA-39 & YSA-1.
 
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I’m waiting on it to be shipped. It had 38 hits. The hood is broken and the mat is mia.
 

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I got a message from the service shop. The GT-2000 is now disassembled and the electronics look good and not damaged. The underside of the plinth is a little bit rough but when i look on pictures online they all have that. The plinth is on the way to the veneer shop for the reveneer job that will take around 3 weeks because the lacqueer will have to dry everytime it is lacquered and that takes a lot of time. In the meantime the service shop is going to look to the armlift to fix it.

What i can not see is if the bottom part is also veneered or only painted is there anyone with a GT2000x that can check that?
 
I got a message from the service shop. The GT-2000 is now disassembled and the electronics look good and not damaged. The underside of the plinth is a little bit rough but when i look on pictures online they all have that. The plinth is on the way to the veneer shop for the reveneer job that will take around 3 weeks because the lacqueer will have to dry everytime it is lacquered and that takes a lot of time. In the meantime the service shop is going to look to the armlift to fix it.

What i can not see is if the bottom part is also veneered or only painted is there anyone with a GT2000x that can check that?

@tuffgong should be able to answer that question.

Assuming all the parts for the lifter are present/intact, the possible issues are thus:

-emitter/receiver diode is misaligned or the three prong plastic bracket that guides the clear plastic wand (looks like a little sword and directs light to the diode) is missing a prong
-the e/r diode is dead (it's literally the same sensor used to position tape in a VCR - cheap fix)
-there is a bad/scratchy contact in the finger dial/potentiometer that's used to adjust lift position (actually controls sensitivity of the e/r diode).

Otherwise they are pretty robust and straightforward.
 
@tuffgong should be able to answer that question.

Assuming all the parts for the lifter are present/intact, the possible issues are thus:

-emitter/receiver diode is misaligned or the three prong plastic bracket that guides the clear plastic wand (looks like a little sword and directs light to the diode) is missing a prong
-the e/r diode is dead (it's literally the same sensor used to position tape in a VCR - cheap fix)
-there is a bad/scratchy contact in the finger dial/potentiometer that's used to adjust lift position (actually controls sensitivity of the e/r diode).

Otherwise they are pretty robust and straightforward.
Hello

I can confirm that the bottom of the 2000x is not veneered.
Thanks
 
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