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Yamaha GT-2000 Turntable Social Group

theophile said:
These are the places that Yamaha couldn't take the GT 2000. There were development budget and final consumer price considerations which were seen to impact the total price which would need to be charged. The good part is: We can do these things. We are really only a bee's willy away from having the aftermarket platters optimised. Very close there. The GT doesn't need to be re-plinthed. That does not mean that there is no point to replinthing. Nor does it mean there is no improvement possible. Again as stock this is stellar sounding. Those who would like to take things further can experiment or they can check out the options for DD refurbishment/modifications.

Is the GT worth the effort? I'd say yes indeed. However we are still talking about a 'vibration reading' medium when we discuss vinyl replay. Sometimes what looks good in theory doesn't work well in practice. The stock GT 2000 set the bar pretty stratospherically. There would exist ways to improve on that benchmark and there would exist ways to compromise that already magnificent achievement.

What I have envisaged in the past is a single piece of kevlar/carbon fiber honeycomb laminate to mount the motor and arms. This would maintain the rigidity but also be light enough to store less energy. Then I'd have a two part component which snugged the honeycomb motor/arm board into a slot within both of the 2 pieces which would then be tensioned against the side of the laminate by a minimum number of carefully placed contact points. Everyone goes down the path of massive plinths but I'd like to try a very light and rigid plinth for the motor and arms which is offered contact with a more massive 'locating' section that situated that light plinth onto the support surface.
Click to expand...

I suppose that experiment would help determine if the superior bass response of the GT is due to the platter, plinth or both. Certainly the massive platter must be a key factor (if not the factor). My hunch is that it's both but with the motor being as awesome as it is it would be too cool to see it repurposed in a different (low) mass configuration. The lightest table I have is a humble little P-751 and while it keeps incredibly accurate speed, its bass response is obviously not GT level. But with a theoretically more massive platter I would not be surprised at all if the bass response improved dramatically. Insulation? Storage? Dissipation? Hmm...

It's so cool for Sidu to take us to the next level!
 
Tekniknissen said:
Maybe it can be done but not easily removable because the spindletap itself has some kind of bent locking washer that most likely should be removed and then push the pin up out from the magnet/lid but I'm not sure how the conical part is pressed or glued to the top of the pin. I attached a pic of that ring people are talking about and which is causing a strange noice when motor is turned slowly by hand or running if the glue is drying out and gets loose as mine had done. I just carefully removed it completely and discovered why it's installed. Without that plastic ring at the bottom of the magnet/lid that lid will ring alot like those old cowbells when picking on it with my nail. With the ring glued and installed properly again that lid makes a very muted sound more like a "bop" instead of "riiing" when picked upon. So yes that ring is important. I used normal contact glue and I think it shouldn't be too critical what kind of glue that is used. Worst scenario is that I need to glue it in again if it gets loose within next 20 or 30 year or so . OK a 3rd pic of the coils inside that motor too just for fun and nice looking pics. Notice those two small sensors too in the pic that is reading the magnetic field for proper commutation of the power to the windings.
Click to expand...

By the way...Tek..is that nice shiny brass color what my motor assembly is supposed to look like? :D Mine is one of the really ancient Nippon Gakki's.
 
808_state said:
By the way...Tek..is that nice shiny brass color what my motor assembly is supposed to look like? :D Mine is one of the really ancient Nippon Gakki's.
Click to expand...
Yes I suppose so :). Its really nothing that holds down the axle to the bearing more than a suction created as soon as you try to drag it up from the bearing. Just keep dragging it up while you twist it and it will get loose from the bearing. It's so incredible tight fitting. After you get it out its much more easy to clean it and you can see if the inside is the same corroded or more shiny. Yours looks very corroded compared to mine and I don't know why. I haven't polished mine or anything.
 
I changed my mind and will be keeping the SS platter.

I've reopened communication with Artisan Fidelity on fabricating a YGT-1 clone, and will be shipping one of my stock aluminum platters to them this week.
 
Mark B said:
I changed my mind and will be keeping the SS platter.

I've reopened communication with Artisan Fidelity on fabricating a YGT-1 clone, and will be shipping one of my stock aluminum platters to them this week.
Click to expand...

Assuming the conical hole is cut to the correct angle and maybe just a hair too deep into the platter, it seems like a thin sleeve to fit over conical part of the spindle would be enough to get it to sit at the correct height and eliminate the wobble. Even some heat shrink tubing might work.
 
I was today in my local CNC fabricator with ALU platter. He told me there will be no problem to make SS or Bronze (Gunmetal) platter for me.
I'm waiting for a quote.

He made for me last year SS medal in size 50% bigger then GT Platter and I'm think, he is very good.

PART_1538076891778.jpeg
 
Mark B said:
I changed my mind and will be keeping the SS platter.

I've reopened communication with Artisan Fidelity on fabricating a YGT-1 clone, and will be shipping one of my stock aluminum platters to them this week.
Click to expand...
Mark,

How much did You paid for SS platter in Japan?
 
theophile said:
Has sunnyday's fabricator said anything more to you about the situation? Have you been left holding the bag, so to speak, with a sub- optimum platter and no recourse from the fabricator? Apologies if you really don't want to discuss anything. I'm not trying to put you on the spot. Just trying to understand whether you have been left high and dry or whether the fabricator is owning this one.
Click to expand...
The fabricator gave me the option of returning it for a refund or keep it as is. Since he was going to eat whatever material costs he had in the SS platter if I returned it, I was hoping he would be motivated to make a SS platter that fit correctly and have a satisfied customer. If he had been willing and able to do that it would likely have established him as a go-to source for an aftermarket YGT-1.
 
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I am perhaps in The Market of buying this beautiful turntable. How easy is it to repair the arm lift when not working and looking for the speedometer?
 
Poorbeek said:
808 thanks for your quick reply. Amy idea About The arm lift is that easily fixable?
Click to expand...
Is it the manual lifting mechanism you refer to or the optional electrical YAL-1? The manual lifter is small mechanical parts containing some small plastic details that can break according to age but it's not that common. The electrical lifter is also normally very rigid but contains its own electronics and detector mentioned above which can fail sometimes. Normally fails because misaligned plastic/optics inside the detector. All is quite easily detachable for checkup. If its just the damping dropping the tonearm too quickly then it's normal procedure to fill up with more new silicone oil I assume. That damping unit is its own located "outside" the mechanical lifting mechanism but still integrated into the electrical lifting since this lifter pushes the damping unit up to the tonearm. First pic is the optional YSA-1 tonearm with the lifter YAL-1 installed. 2nd pic is the original YA-39 tonearm without the lifter installed. Still the mechanical lifter is present in the base arm to the right in the both pics.

peerscarnt-img1200x900-1553993402ansc9q30056.jpg i-img600x450-1547186023afztdv211862.jpg
 
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A120952A-9AB6-49E6-8045-0AD20F04EE97.jpeg 6D4DDED5-7236-4DBE-89F0-2A4FF0BE9F8C.jpeg I can buy a GT2000 with a minor defect in The veneer that is repairable with a none working Manuel arm lift and missing speed indicator. The asking price is 1000usd is that an ok price?
 
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