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Yamaha GT-2000 Turntable Social Group

You mean this tiny looking motor on its stand for example?
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To me it looks like some small part inside a tapedeck or similar. Doesn't give me any good feeling at all about this TOTL unit.

Looks like something anyone could build with parts from a supply store. I guess the flip side is if it goes bad you could replace it with just about anything you have laying around.
 
The GT-5000 doesn't benefit from the economy of scale that made the GT-2000 so affordable in 1982.

No doubt the market today is much smaller by comparison...but...there's always a but...Yamaha is far from being a niche audiophile designer/maker. They have large profits and resources from other divisions (musical instruments, motors etc.) to fall back on. They can afford to splurge a little, especially on the most fundamental element of a table. Technics pulled out the stops and did the GAE for half the cost of a 5000 and the GAE motor is a beefy beauty.
 
I really like this finish. Looks very classy. Are you swapping out the bases or did you pick up another GT 2000??
Oh I’m gonna buy another for sure, bidding on an incomplete 2000 on Yahoo! Japan now, But I’ll swap parts If not won! Quoted 638.00 for a blank 316 ss plug, 15” by 1 1/2” so I’m still searching for a decent price on that, I found a local guy who has plenty of 2” and 1” doesn’t have any 1 1/2” or 1 3/8”.
 
GOD knows what they were thinking when they approved production of the "GT" 5000.

It is somewhat of a miracle that someone even signed off on producing a new GT table, let alone new NS speakers and discrete components. So jabs to the motor assembly and price aside, it really is a historic step. I'm only half complaining ; )
 
I understand Theo’s comment here and I believe it’s justified:

GT-2000/L was the Apex of the NS series until it was surpassed in build & technical measurements by the rare GT-2000X (1985) - e.g the wow & flutter measurements according to Yamaha’s GT-2000X manual (50% less from the already excellent GT-20000/L) (TVK despite being an excellent resource has written these numbers incorrectly)
Just like the Flagship NS-2000 Speakers of the same era, until they were surpassed by the super rare NSX-10000 (notice Yamaha adds an X when it’s their finest work)
Sorry if I’m going slightly off subject here but I think this is relevant.
The NS-5000 flagship speakers with zylon drivers does ‘appear’ to be an evolution of the series and may (I can’t verify) be a better integrated speaker than the NS-2000/10000. The only credible information I received on comparisons between the NS-5000 and the NSX-10000 was from a contact in Japan who heard both and likened the difference to an absolute classic Porsche design (NSX-10000) with a modern state of art Porsche design.
Yamaha Australia apparently pitted a NS-1000 vs NS-5000 in Australia a year or two ago, which makes me wonder why they didn’t at least use the NS-2000 in their sonic demonstrations as the NS-2000 was the flagship.

The GT-2000/L/X models are all direct drive with multiple upgrade paths.
The GT-5000 is belt drive and the only similarity is it has a straight tonearm which may be similar to the YSA-1/2 series of the original series, (this is my speculation not fact). It may have an external power supply too. But it seems like they are pinching the true spirit of the GT-2000 series and casting it into a (possibly) inferior design. Cashing in on a classic if you like. Having never heard a GT-5000 I’m not going to comment on it’s sonic abilities. I will say I concur with Theo on this one. I don’t think I’ll be parting with my GT-2000X when I finally get back to Oz in the next month.
The GT-750 despite being a lower tier GT it was a direct drive and similar in size just with fewer upgrades so you make a fair point about the 750. Also there was the GT-1000. I’m wondering if this was similar thinking Yamaha designers & marketers at the time had with the NS speaker series that had lots of sub NS-1000 models with the NS-1000 being the flagship until 1982. But the GT-750 was never as far as I can tell marketed as the flagship model where the GT-5000 is being marketed worldwide as their flagship.
I think you're beign a bit harsh - after all the GT-750 wears the same moniker somewhat uncomfortably!
 
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Gentlemen, before I go off half cocked and buy a ya-39 tone arm with a yal-1 attached, does it have other parts installed inside the carcass such as a motor or controls for it? I ask because I see a yal-1 sold separately with more parts?
 
There’s a little cable that connects the tonearm electronically with a socket on the GT-2000 circuit board, this cable is removed (if my memory serves me right) when the Yal-1 is installed (simple process) as the Yal-1 has a little cable that connects to the same socket as the tonearm cable and powers the Yal-1 and tonearm circuitry, so you will have a spare cable. Ideally use long nose pliers and a decent torch.
 
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The transparent pin above the screws is essential as it is part of the mechanism that lifts the tonearm. Can’t remember all the other parts except the silver cylinder which selects the location on the disc to autolift I.E. the place between The start of the vinyl record track1 and the end e.g. track5 prior to the lockout groove.
 
The mechanism is basically driven by an emitter/receiver diode that is identical to those used to control tape position in VCR's. The clear wand focuses light from the diode against a mirror on the underside of the arm. The silver dial adjusts intensity in the diode and "trips" a piston that manually kicks out the lifter. As the arms swings toward the spindle, a little hole that allows light from the diode to reflect off the mirror actually closes, thus reducing the amount of light. One thing you may find is that as you adjust VTA, you may need to adjust the lift position. Once it's all assembled you turn the silver dial all the way to zero, with the lifter in the up position (for needle safety) rotate the arm to the spot where you want to to pop/lift and turn the dial slowly til the red light comes on. The piston will then "pop" and kick out the lifter. As soon as you pull the arm back the red light will turn off and the piston will drop.
 

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Great explanation 808 state thank you

The nice thing to know is that if that e/r diode dies there's literally millions of them floating around the planet. The other tricky thing is the small plastic fitting that surrounds the diode. The three prongs on it are key for aligning the wand. Those are not so easy to find, if at all. I think they were a custom piece for that project. The first YAL-1 I received had a missing prong (top)...

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This proved problematic and while I could kind of rig up some tubing around the fitting, it didn't work quite right and I ultimately purchased another one. The one in the picture I keep for parts. Seems like that little green manalishi with the three pronged crown would be a great project for a 3-D printer.
 
When I bought my GT-2000 from HiFiDo it already had a YAL-1 installed. The YAL-1 performs the auto-lift function beautifully.

When I eventually install the Thomas Schick tonearm on the GT-2000 I'll use a Little Fwend for auto-lift.
 
When I bought my GT-2000 from HiFiDo it already had a YAL-1 installed. The YAL-1 performs the auto-lift function beautifully.

When I eventually install the Thomas Schick tonearm on the GT-2000 I'll use a Little Fwend for auto-lift.

Will the Fwend also work with an Yas39 arm?

Vec it is very difficult to find the original lift?.
 
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